[urq] Cylinder Head Q [LONG]

Andrew Finney afinn1 at gmail.com
Mon Feb 28 18:12:15 EST 2005


SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..

You may want to take some time and look through the archives from ....let's
think here.....spring/early summer 2001.  I went through to hell and back
having my head re-done.  Here's what I know (or think I know)

I'm not the expert on warped heads and such - but I'd guess a simple
re-surface would fix any warpage and you can re-install.  I don't recall if
you recently had the valves done - so if not I would take the opportunity to
go ahead and do that.  As for the EM - while it's off, and it's been heat
cycled - I'd have its mating surface flattened too - local machinist here
charges $45.  But assuming its just a little warped - I think I'd just have
it resurfaced and call it good.  I probably should have done that years ago
when I did my 10V rebuild - I got scared off by some warpage and the EM
mounting face needing a good amount of flattening - and went on a
country-wide seach for a head....

If you choose to replace the head - probably the first thing you need to
find is a  head that pressure tests OK.  I went through I think 3 heads
before finding one that pressure tested ok.  As Jim said KH head is good
replacement - (this is what I did) - no mods needs.  It is the exact same
casting as WX but has hydraulic lifters.  So I don't believe it flows any
better than WX.  As for hydraulic lifters - unless you're going to track it
and plan to rev it past 7000 they are fine.  Being a hydraulic lifter head -
WX cam will not work.   KH cam reportedly sucks.  I never even tried it - I
had my WX solid lifter cam reground by Delta to 268/270 specs - about as
aggressive as you can get and still pass emissions here on our rolling dynos
in CO - for the hydraulic lifter KH head.  If emissions don't matter - I
think some people like the characteristics of the 272.  Somewhat lumpy idle
but great top end to match the K26.

Now - a little more involved option would be an MC head.  If I were to
replace a head I think I would go this route.  It does have better flow
characteristics than the WX/KH.  But it does require that an oil galley (I
think) be welded shut.  Keith Anderson I believe, knows how/what to do - as
do others I'm sure.  And it would come with a good cam - unlike the KH.

but I bet your head is fine - just get it resurfaced.....and do the EM too.

anyway  hth

Brandon
'84 ur

SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

If you're going to go to all that trouble you should use the head out
of the last normally aspirated 5000 with the big intake valves and
swap in the sodium-filled exhaust valves. I bought one from Force5,
had them do all the seals and exhaust studs. The intake valves are
much larger than the WX ones. That's what I did. HTH.

Andrew Finney
1983 and 1984 UrQs.


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