[urq] Brake Pads

[Max Hoepli]

Regarding brake pads in the rear: if they squeal like a pig when applied.
What does that mean? Mechanic says normal for that car. I don't believe
that. Rotors look flat and shiny.
My sister has a 1993 Mazda MX-6, "Mystere".


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com>
To: <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: 13, October 2005 18:41
Subject: Re: [urq] Clutch MC and Slave Cylinder


> ... been meaning to add my tuppence on this one for a while now ...
> sorry about the delay.
>
> I would tend to recommend against doing the master unless it is needed
> ... it isn't one of those things where the fact you've got the slave out
> makes the master any easier.  The only thing you'll save is the second
> bleed cycle you will need should you find that you need to come back and
> do the master at some later date.  I have found a replacement M/C to be
> pretty expensive for the urq ... if you decide you want to make sure the
> M/C is good while you're doing the slave, I'd recommend getting a
> rebuild kit and rebuilding the master you have.  One of the things I do
> recommend giving serious consideration to if you decide to do the M/C is
> to figure out how to reinforce the firewall before its too late.  Jeff
> Lewis' solution seems to be pretty elegant ... but it is a bit pricey
> ...
>
> ... getting back to the main recommendation I wanted to post ... The
> slave cylinder can be a real PITA to wiggle out of the bellhousing ...
> and be *very* careful to try to make sure that the push rod in the slave
> doesn't accidentally drop into to bellhousing!  I heartily recommend
> that you replace the flexible hose when you do the slave ...
>
> Steve B
> San Jose, CA (USA)
> >
> > Any BTDT or special instructions on replacing my clutch master and
> slave
> > cylinder?  Slave cylinder is bad-leaking brake fluid.  Master seems
> okay,
> > but most have advised that if changing one, both should be done.  Is
> this
> > the prevailing truth?
>
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