[urq] Another one comes out of the cracks in Dayton (long)

[DGraber460@aol.com]

In a message dated 9/20/2005 7:43:07 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
n-engelbert at terrans.net writes:

Last  weekend at the Dayton Concours D'Elegance, a man in a mint '63  Beetle
approached me and my Mars '83.  He told me that along with the  Beetle that
he was selling for a woman whose husband had died a couple of  years ago,
she had a car just like mine for sale.  He had pictures,  and sure enough,
it's also a Mars '83, but this one has 42k miles.   WAUDC0855DA900480.

I went to check it out last night and tell him what  I thought of it, and
it's near immaculate.  Mostly original near  perfect Mars paint, although
the hood has been repainted, and under the  spoiler on the drivers side,
the paint looks like it's chipping/flaking  off.  All factory pinstriping,
decals, and fading rings are present  and in great shape.  He's got a stack
of maintenance records that  includes a new complete driveshaft and new
spoiler in the last 100  miles.  The interior is chocolate leather and
looks brand new.   Euro Audi 80 single bulb flat grille lights, not
relayed, really dim.   And the list goes on.  Stock fog light switch
running what appear to  be aftermarket fogs mounted below the bumper. 
Early 83 suspension with the  rear swaybar, and, a two position diff lock
switch.  Working AC  even.

The bad is that it does have some electrical gremlins, the fuel  gauge
doesn't work, and the tach drops out with the turn signals on and  the
headlights on.  The dash lights would drop out intermittently as  well. 
While we were out driving, if we signaled to turn and John pressed  in the
clutch to downshift, the car would die.  I assume that this is  a fusebox
issue or connector issue as most of these are on the same circuit  and I've
had the same problem on my car at one point.  Also, the car  has been
sitting at least the last two years, and it was driven less than  1000
miles in the last 10 years.  The fuel pump was replaced in 1992,  and again
in 2002, so things may be varnished up inside.

I don't  need another car, he may have a buyer in PA already, but I do have
a few  questions.

When I went to look at the car, the battery was dead.   We started the car
with a big battery charger, and it ran great for a while  and would then
struggle to idle and die unless John were to artificially  raise the idle
with the accelerator.  The car would then start again  fine, run fine for a
while and then die.  I decided to check the  frequency valve duty cycle,
and when the car attempts to go closed loop, it  just dies.  Crank the car,
80%, car starts, 95% dropping, dropping,  then when it goes to cycle around
50%, the car dies.  I tested the WOT  switch with the idle switch closed,
50%.  WOT switch closed, idle  switch open, 77%.  And sometimes the car
would smooth out and idle  great, but the duty cycle was stuck at 95%
again.  Then, the car would  lose idle again when the duty cycle would drop
from 95%.  It would go  to around 55% and die.  If he'd catch the car and
rev it, the duty  cycle would go up and cycle with rpm.  I haven't tested
the O2 sensor  yet, or any other sensors, as it was getting dark last night
when I looked  at it.  Any suggestions on what else to check to get it to
run  correctly?

Also, something I hadn't seen on an UrQ before, the outer  door handles had
plastic protectors behind the handle against the body,  kind of like the
cups inside the inner door handles that are there to cover  the screw head
holding the door handle on.  Were these stock?   I've never seen them
before.  I'll post some pictures soon.

If  it were a late 83 with the late fusebox, or if it were helios, I'd
probably  have mine for sale and would be buying this one.  But, this one
is  pretty well 100% stock, and low mileage.  I won't feel as bad  swapping
my 3b into my 83.

I want to help the seller get the car  running correctly before he sells
it, which he may have already  done.

Input, questions?

Nathan Engelbert
83 UrQ  DA900453
89 90q
91 200q20v donor
91 200q20v  avant
_______________________________________________



Strange/ironic/great timing on this post Nathan.
My "new to me" URQ is doing the same thing. When it switches to closed loop  
it dies and is hell to start. I have switched ECUs, Ignition module, ignition  
switch, coil, and added a switch to manually engage the fuel pump (relayed it 
 while I was there as well). I also renewed most of the connections at the 
fuse  panel, air temp sensor, and coil, using Caig's "magic goo".
It has to be the O2 sensor!
Trying that tonight.
Lets keep each other posted.
 
Dennis
Denver