[urq] Intermittent no start - pretty sure I have the fix

[urquattro at comcast.net]

Hi Guys,
I had the same problem after I put in my bigger intercooler (less airflow back across the starter), and I agree it's a heat issue, but it's made an issue by the pathetic "power-through the switch, tiny power wire" phenom we experience everywhere else on our cars. The power wire to the solenoid is abysmally small and in my case, it had a lot of heat damage from being right next to the downpipe. When the solenoid gets hot, the internal parts don't move as easily, and unless you are getting full current, it just won't go.

Solution? (Need I say it?) RELAY THE SOLENOID. I relayed mine headlight-style off the alternator using 12-gauge power wire, 30-amp NO relay, 20-amp inline fuse, and the original power wire as the signal. Has worked like a dream ever since. Incidentally, I needlessly spent $130 on a rebuilt starter before I figured out what what really causing the problem.

As an immediate solution, opening the hood for about 30 seconds after you stop when you know it's going to be a short one will allow a LOT of the lower engine bay heat to dissipate through convection and keep the solenoid from just sitting there and cooking (as much). For a while I was actually leaving the hood open with the car locked while I ran into the grocery store for beer and cigarettes...

HTH,
Jon

PS- LA, glad you hear you are okay. I have many relatives in Quebec and I have traveled that road several times myself.


>Hi there,
>
> Twice in the last month, my car refused to re-start when stopped for a
> short period after highway. The first time I bump-started it easily, the
> second time I had to wait 5 minutes and it catch normally.
>
> What is the cause of this behaviour ?
> Starter (the 1983 original "big bertha") has been rebuilt 3 years ago,
> the ignition switch seems to work fine (I was hearing the click-click of
> the hot start pulse relay during the attemps), wiring is tight but
> dirty.