[urq] RE : Intermittent no start

[urquattro at comcast.net]

You're right, the plastic connector housing doesn't help, but as with the headlights, it's just one feature of a very flimsy circuit. 

I think I spliced the old solenoid power wire into the signal for the relay and replaced the connector from the new power source completely with a new spade connector with heat-shrink tubing to insulate it from the other wire, which I may have also "refurbished". It's easy to get the connections on the back of the solenoid mixed up, which is why I suggest checking the dependance of the starter on your new fuse to verify you hooked it up right.

Setting up the relay is really not that involved. I'm far from a wiring expert and a slow wrench-turner in general and it took me less than 2 hours including getting the car up and back down on the ground. It's only 4 wires, a fuse, inline fuse holder, and a standard 30A normally open relay;

1. butt-fuse old power wire to new wire of same size connected to terminal 86 on the relay

2. 18-gage ground wire from terminal 85 on the relay to a chassis ground (I use a zinc-plated machine screw) - grounds the relay 

3. 12-gage wire from alternator positive post to relay terminal 30 with inline 20-amp fuse spliced in

4. 12-gage wire from relay terminal 87 to the new spade connector hooked to the power connection on the solenoid.

This is probably overkill for the amount of current the solenoid draws, but hey, why not give it as much juice as it wants?

NOTE: Since I've given detailed instructions, I feel I have to mention that in order for the settup to be reliable you -should- use a proper ratcheting wire crimper, heat shrink tubing on the connections, and you should go to lengths to insure the relay is safe from splash moisture. You'll thank yourself over and over again for investing ~$80 in a proper crimper and a heat gun. Also, make sure any connectors you replace (like at the solenoid) fit tightly and are well insulated from each other. And make sure your wiring is fastened snugly with zip ties and doesn't flop around near any moving parts.

OK-I've officially beat this topic to death! 

-Jon

<<IME, the problem is the plastic double spaded connector. Its corrosion 
and exposure to the heat from turbo, is more of the problem than the 
starter. Relaying it its a good move, although bit involved, but that 
connection needs to be examined (repaired) and heat sleeve protected.

Regards,

Ado>>