[urq] Relay that controls the power windows?

[Thatcher Hubbard]

I've got power and ground at both of the harnesses which plug into the
switches.  Admittedly, the power windows on mine are not in good
shape.  The regulator cables snapped, so they'll go up on their own
(with help) but basically had to be pushed down completely by hand.
I'll open up the doors and see if I've got power to the regulators.
The "thermal cut out switch" might be worth checking too, I've looked
at every fuse under the driver and passenger side dash (there's only
one fuse on my passenger side auxiliary panel), but I've always
wondered what that shiny thing did.

My other problem was that when I'd put the dash back in originally,
I'd neglected to secure the vent and heater temp control cables to
that big lever doohicky, so when I'd try to move the heater lever
towards cool, the cable housing would just push back under the dash.
I corrected that last evening and now at least I can get my vents to
blow cooler air instead of full hot.

I'll let you guys know what I find out.  This might be a sign that my
long delayed project to replace the window regulators has become a
priority.

On 4/6/07, Buchholz, Steven <Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com> wrote:
> ... if both stopped at the same time it is likely to be the power or ground source that is the problem.  Each window has its own thermal fuse, and even at ~15 years it would be odd to hear both failing at the same time.  The thing that's nice about the urq is that you don't have all the complications of the newer cars ... and there's a lot less wiring going to the driver's door.  It isn't too tough to pull the console piece that has the switches ... first verify that you have power and ground at the switches, If so, connect up the switch for one side and measure power and ground while you activate the switch.  If you have no voltage when everything is disconnected or you see the +12 go down close to zero or the ground come up towards +12 follow the circuitry back toward the fuse box and battery.  If the voltage stays solid it could be the switches themselves (check the voltage going out to the window when the switch is on) ...
> Steve B
> San José, CA (USA)
> >
> > Just in time for it to get sorta hot here in Seattle, my power windows
> > quit working.  Both of them at the same time, I first thought I had
> > blown a fuse, but a check of the wiring diagrams and the fuse panel
> > diagram seems to indicate that their is no fuse?  Is there a relay
> > that could have blown that provides power to the actual window
> > regulators?
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