[urq] RE : Phase 1 Complete! Thanks!
Brandon Rogers
brogers at terrix.com
Tue Nov 13 09:45:11 PST 2007
When I first got my 3B conversion on the road I used a cone filter - and
_hated_ it - too many loud whooshing and hissing noises. Got an airbox
and back to nice good engine and exhaust noises.
I think 034 now makes a an airbox to go in place of the fuel
distributor- I'm guess you put a cone filter in there but I don't know..
Brandon
-----Original Message-----
From: urq-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:urq-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of Louis-Alain Richard
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:28 AM
To: 'Todd Phenneger'; dgraber460 at aol.com; urq at pacbell.net; 'urq list'
Subject: [urq] RE : Phase 1 Complete! Thanks!
While I don't have a 034ed car, I know one, Brady's '83. He will
probably chime in later on that subject, I think he is busy getting
married these days, but I can comment on a few things.
- throttle. If one swap the progressive cam from the OEM setup for a
more direct/linear device, throttle will be very touchy and sensitive to
input. For everyday drives, it can be annoying.
- noise. Brady's car has a cone filter directly in front of the TB.
While it is fine for performance, noise level is high, obviously, but
the noise pitch is also a bit strange, like a turbine mixed with a
leaking door seal. If it was my car, I'd keep the cone filter, but I
would muffled it in a custom box to hear more of the engine/exhaust and
less of the intake. I don't like noisy engines in a street car.
Louis-Alain
> -----Message d'origine-----
De la part de Todd Phenneger
!
>
> Dennis,
> I¹ve been spending quite a bit of time on the MotorGeek website and
> there is a LOT of knowledge there. Not to mention some very skilled
> builders. What Engine are you doing this on? Stock ur-q 10vt or
> something more along
> the MC Variety?
>
> Even if using the normal Solid Lifter engine you could still get tons
of
> power out of that motor with the low compression it has. But if your
> going
> to build something your probably better off going with an MC and then
> you can always lower the compression a little with a thicker head
> gasket.
>
> Are you going to do Fuel Only or Fuel & Spark? Fuel & Spark is needed
> if you plan to run upwards of 15psi as I¹ve read a lot of people have
> issues getting the stock ECU to behave well above 15-18psi. But with
> proper fueling that 15psi can be achieved with a far smoother running
> engine. If you run fuel & Spark, well, The sky¹s the limit. I think
> Javad got 350whp out of his 10vt. But that hardly compares to the
> 800hp he¹s gotten from the 20vt.
>
> As for what you need, AFAIKT you need
> Custom Crank Trigger wheel. ³Or 5-window Distributor if your going
> with 5-coil Ignition setup in addition to fueling. Water Temp sender.
> Intake Temp Sender?? I know you need this for Ignition, not sure on
Fuel
> Only. They seem to be using a GM Temp sender that¹s is easy to get,
> affordable, and works well.
> Fuel Rail w/brackets
> S4 Style Throttle Position Sensor or other sensor. ³Not sure if doing
> Fuel
> Only how this intigrates with the stock Idle switch, unless you have
the
> 034
> take over all Idle Control which it can do.
>
> For basic parts that¹s about it. Fuel only tuning should be a little
> easier and there are plenty of maps out there from others so it should
> be pretty easy to find one that¹s close to your engine configuration
> and go from there. It really just depends on what you want. For me, I
> get lots of crappy fuel here in Central America so I like maintaing
> the stock ECU for Timing as it has Knock Control. But a properly
> tuned engien should not ping
> and shouldn¹t need it. Use an EGT Gauge in your car it will tell you
if
> your running dangerously.
>
> Let me know what info you want and I¹ll try to help you out.
>
> Todd
>
>
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