[urq] re mileage contest....
Ingo Rautenberg
ingo.rautenberg at gmail.com
Fri Sep 19 10:57:38 PDT 2008
Bob et al,
Glad you got your issues taken care of.
WRT Boost Hose Leak -- Might I suggest the following for your in-car
emergency tool kit:
Often in the electrical tape section at your local ACE or other
hardware store, Self-Fusing Tape. While primarily marketed as
Electrical tape, it saved my butt a couple of times: Once for the
intercooler to throttle body hose (handles 15+ psi without fuss) and
then as a radiator hose repair. You can easily identify the tape
because it is separated from itself on the roll at the store by
clear plastic (so it doesn't bond to itself).
This stuff was originally spec'd for the Military -- and we know the
extreme rigours required in such applications.
The throttle body hose blew my first day at Brainerd Int'l Raceway at
the 20th Anniversary GTG a few years ago. Once I did the 'temp'
repair it lasted well beyond the 800 mile-home trip. Try that with
Duct Tape...no, don't.
No chewing gum required ;-)
Ingo
On Sep 18, 2008, at 9:57 PM, Robert Pastore wrote:
> C'mon, Brandon, let me be in this contest! The summer trip came
> in at
> 7,738 miles. The car was great to drive, and I really only had two
> problems during the trip. I blew a boost hose in Las Vegas, and
> had to use
> chewing gum, crazy glue and duct tape to hold it together until my
> friends
> in Glenwood Springs rescued me with a replacement hose. The
> second problem
> I had was that my A/C would blow cold at idle, but as soon as I
> started
> pushing the car, my A/C was no longer cold. Dave Dawson
> diagnosed the
> problem perfectly. The little black and white plastic check valve
> for the
> hvac flap vacuum motor had gone bad, and the system worked fine on
> vacuum,
> but any boost would blow past the failed check valve, and move the
> flap
> actuator to dump the cold air and direct ambient air into the
> cabin. We
> just ziptied the flap into the closed position, and all five of us
> were a
> lot happier with decent A/C on the 2,000 mile trip back to NJ.
>
> BTW, the failure on most odometers caused by the gear that drives the
> odometer loosing its press fit on the driven shaft. The best way
> to repair
> the Odometer is to stake the gear so and then press fit it onto the
> shaft
> again. I've got a great little spring loaded nailset that works
> perfectly
> to both stake the gear and drive the shaft back into the gear.
>
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brandon Rogers" <brogers at terrix.com>
> To: "'graham baird'" <boomerbaird at hotmail.com>; <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 12:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [urq] re mileage contest....
>
>
>>
>>
>>> ----------
>>> From: Brandon Rogers[SMTP:BROGERS at TERRIX.COM]
>>> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 12:25:16 PM
>>> To: 'graham baird'; urq at audifans.com
>>> Subject: Re: [urq] re mileage contest....
>>> Auto forwarded by a Rule
>>>
>> I don't put on that much - maybe 4000-5000 miles/yr....
>>
>> Yeah I forgot a lot of odo's stop working - mine works. I _hear_ the
>> reason
>> they fail is because people "zero" them while the car is moving -
>> causing
>> wear on the gears - don't know if its true tho. Regardless I only
>> zero it
>> when at rest - mine still works...I have 179,000 on my chassis....
>>
>> Brandon
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: urq-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:urq-bounces at audifans.com]
>> On Behalf
>> Of graham baird
>> Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 7:02 PM
>> To: urq at audifans.com
>> Subject: [urq] re mileage contest....
>>
>>
>>
>> hey brandon, You are assuming that most urq's have a speedo/
>> odometer that
>> works! How much do you put on in a year? boomer
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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