[urq] No crank

[Robert A Dupree]

Mike - I have empathy on this one.  On my '84 app (obviously the different fuse block/harness than your app) I was pulling what little hair I have remaining because it SHOULD have worked just fine.

a.       Wire path from back of ignition switch to solenoid = good

b.      Wire path for power to ignition switch & voltage = good

c.       Ignition switch continuity for solenoid and power pins in start position = good

d.      Switch in on or start position would result in fuel pump firing up (jumpered)
However the car would not crank.
So the advice kept rolling in that it was an ignition switch and I argued and argued.
I removed the entire legacy install of the Ungo-box alarm which was advanced back in 84 considering it had an analog cellular modem to dial a pager...
It belonged in the Hall of Antiquities from Transformers!

Finally to make everyone get off the damnable idea of the switch I put a new one in.
Of course the car fired right up.
To this day I don't understand why.

Your results of course will be different because the Audi-gods invent tailor made tests of fealty for each of us.  BTW when my switch died there was no indicators it was on its way out.  Fired up the car to pull it out of garage, 20mins later turn-key no crank to pull it back in.


From: Mike Del Tergo [mailto:mdeltergo at hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 8:20 PM
To: Robert A Dupree; urq at audifans.com
Subject: RE: [urq] No crank

Hi Rob,
Long time!  Mirror is not the switch (at least not solely) as I have no power into the switch on the Rd/Bl wire and the fuse is OK.  I tracked The door harness to its connector and wasn't immediately able to track it to power.  In fact the mirror fuse is tucked up in the "alternate" panel and it only had power out not power into the fuse!  So my mirrors hav been running from somewhere else for nearly 20 years of my ownership!  So I decided to button it up as I wanted to go to a car show tomorow of course!  I would suspect the ignition switch if it were dodgy before failure but it was not.  Also to switch powers up the load reduction relay on the "start" position so I'm thinking I dislocated something.  I have the factory wiring for all years of UrQs but they really don't help  here as the factory jumpered and commingled so many power sources that it is a nightmare.  I have put a remote starter wiring switch between the solonoid and +from the alternator to get the car running but would welcome and starting points to find the proper lead to the starter solonoid before I waste a whole day checking for continuity between the solonoid wire and any one of a hundred behind the fuse block. In digging around the "alternative fuse" block above the usual suspects, I also found a fuse holder with a fuse inserted but no wires at all going in or out of the fuse!
Mike




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