[urq] Adapting the SIR tool for urq bearing replacement (also link to upg 2005 photos)

racingiron at comcast.net racingiron at comcast.net
Sat May 30 14:17:02 PDT 2009


steven j wrote: 
>First off the SIR tool has 3 different size horseshoes bases that 
> bolt to the bottom but the BMW one at 90mm is way to small. 

I leave off the horseshoe. It's only needed for those cars whose hub is as wide or wider than the bearing carrier flat surface. The rigidity of the tool without horseshoe isn't a problem. However, be careful where the tool rests. I bent the brake mounting tab on an S4 strut once before I learned the bearing removal sledge tip below (that was also before I realized that #3 is just for hub removal and I should've switched to #4 & 5 for bearing removal). If you have a horseshoe that'll fit, it helps spread the load across the carrier, limiting the chances of screwing up like I did. 

>For pulling the bearing in, the #4& 5 cylinder tool is too large to 
> fit, but that #12 tucks into the strut housing OK. any BTDT. 

For bearing install, the manual shows your idea as an acceptable alternative method, provided that the #12 will sit flat in the housing. That's the main issue with install: you need that bearing to go in straight. I *think* this is the method I used, but I recall having to stop and tap on the install washer with a sledge to straighten it up a few times. Keep a close eye on alignment of the bearing during install, especially at first. If you encounter sudden extra resistance, it's likely due to bearing misalignment. 

Speaking of the sledge, it comes in handy during bearing removal, too. Since you should never use an impact gun on this tool, you might discover that it takes quite a bit of torque when trying to pull the bearing. If the torque force gets high enough, the tool's little bearing can be destroyed (DAMHIK). I've found that if you torque up the tool to a reasonable level and still don't have movement, a gentle tap with a sledge on the side of the wheel bearing carrier will allow the bearing to jump free. Then you torque up the tool again and repeat the tap as many times as necessary to walk the bearing out. 

HTH, and good luck! Once you get that hang of it, it's a piece o' cake. 

Eric R. 
'86 urq 
'92 urS 
'93 urS 



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