[urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?

Patrick Carlier p.carlier at pandora.be
Fri Sep 17 23:32:53 PDT 2010


Ogh , and come to think of it .
Friend of mine had a simlilar problem .
Rebuild booster leaking like hell .
Turned out he had swapped the feed and return lines  .

Pat



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick Carlier" <p.carlier at pandora.be>
To: "Ben Swann" <benswann at verizon.net>; <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?


> Ben , my guess is that you're missing some part from the booster .
> That sawtooth nut can be used and re used . Just use a vice grip to 
> tighten
> it .
> I've rebuild boosters on various occasions , but never changed the nut or
> the copper washer .
>
> There's a page somewhere with a list of all parts needed , o-rings and 
> seals
> with dimensions
> for both the alloy and the cast brake booster .
>
> There's also a PDF for the alloy booster only .
> http://www.quattro.ca/Urq/Brake_servo_guide.pdf
>
> The cast brake booster has a few more internal parts then the alloy one .
> I'm afraid I 've lost my bookmarks , so I can't find it right away ,
> but I' m sure someone on this list must have it .
>
> Pat
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at verizon.net>
> To: <urq at audifans.com>
> Cc: <benswann at verizon.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 6:47 AM
> Subject: [urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?
>
>
>
> I have been in process of upgrading rear brakes to V8 calipers, carriers 
> and
> rotors.
> That part went fairly well and except for having a little mixup with the
> rotors - that
> looks great!
>
> There were several "suggestions" from folks I put high credibility in
> information I get
> on this list -  that in order to utilize the larger diameter rears I 
> needed
> to also use
> the V8 or 200 master cyl.  Good suggestion I thought - pretty trivial to
> replace that -
> albiet a bit or a PITA.    One ought to presume that unless additional
> information is
> given to the contrary that a swap is a simple swap.
>
> Now this is where someone should have provided a clue that this was not a
> doable swap
> for mere mortals or at least there was more to just swapping the master
> cylinder out.
> If there was BTDT on this I should have been advised..
>
> OK - The line hookup needed to bend the lines  and reconfigure the 
> hookups -
> old MC had
> lineson bottom and sides - new MC had a V configuration. That is not t a
> real big deal,
> but should have been mentioned.  Not everyone presumes things need to be
> bent or ...
>
> Here is what frosted me..
>
> The original master cylinder bore is less diameter than the V8/200 MC 
> that
> is where the
> disaster started.  There was a plastic sleeve in the hydraulic booster 
> that
> the master
> is pressed into - or so I thought it was a sleeve.  It  was held by 
> captive
> bolt at
> bottom - O should have also figured that since it was a sawtooth grip 
> nut -
> one way only
> - to stop there and re install my otherwise good working "original": MC.
>
> Yes -   I should have stopped there, but being is no caveats based on BTDT
> were issued,
> presumed this was not a problem.  So I removed the bolt - with difficulty 
> it
> came out.
> The 'sleeve' was also captive by friction until I helped it free.  Free it
> did!
> Hydraulic fluid, spring, O-ring seal, carrier/retainer, all let loose.  It
> was not a
> sleeve but a complex shaped seal holding captive - shim, O-ring,
> veeerylooongspring,
> shaft, retainer and hydraulic fluid under pressure!
>
> I collected the parts, cleaned my face and figured that the V8 MC should 
> fit
> in - It
> did, but there would be no seal.
>
> Finding that there was no ready way to use the V8 master in the original
> booster, I
> reassembled the original components as best as I could.
>
> So now I'm left with a mess and a car I can't drive  - the funky sawtooth
> nut is a
> special seal bolt that is one use only.  I tried to seal with copper
> washers, o-rings -
> hard to hold captive 3000 PSI!   So what do I need to do now - replace the
> booster?
> Arghhhhhhh!  Where does one get that special seal bolt?  What a big waste 
> of
> time - I
> could have just used and aftermarket proportioning valve, instead of
> replacinG the MC.
>
> I'm venting now - a little less than I did a few wasted hours past,  since
> this cost me
> not only money, but  a lot of unessessary time and aggravation.  I look to
> this list a
> source of reliable information and if there is a potential problem with a
> safety system,
> I expect a little warning.  Here-say is not a good way to disseminate
> information -
> either you did the job and know the details(BTDT) and provide them, or
> please don't lead
> someone to do a job that is fraught with major difficulties, especially 
> when
> it involves
> critical saftey components.
>
> If I had known this all before, I would have simply installed two new 
> stock
> calipers.
>
> I know - caveats for the info. provided on this list, but then  - why
> bother?  That's
> all for now.
>
> Ben
>
>
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