[urq] When the day my heater hose burst, could i just clamp it? WX engine

Steve B urq at pacbell.net
Tue Aug 27 10:35:18 PDT 2013


I suspect that Mike was not suggesting that the OP depend on the heater valve to seal, rather to indicate that there is normally little to no flow through the circuit, so it should be OK to block it.

I would recommend against plumbing the back of the head back to the pipe that runs along the engine up to the thermostat.  Normal max heater flow would go through the heat exchanger in the cabin, with associated cooling and restriction.  I'm convinced the better course would be to block flow.

When I last had to deal with that hose I didn't have time to crawl under the dash, so I spliced the hose at the firewall and used a fitting from one of those "flush and fill" kits to link everything together.  This has come in handy for coolant replacement too.

Steve Buchholz

Chris <kleinbiker1 at aol.com> wrote:

>I would not rely on the heater valve to hold the pressure in the system for starters. It holds the pressure now because the pressure us almost equal on both sides of the ball valve. The best option in my opinion is to keep a piece of heater hose in the trunk that's cut to the proper length to go from that coolant pipe to the head thus completely eliminating the heater core and valve from the coolant loop. You do still need coolant to flow in my opinion. 
>
>On Aug 27, 2013, at 11:17, Steven Murray <michellepfeiffersx at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Or do I need to put in a hose to maintain some flow?
>> 
>> I keep some hose pincers in the car.     Heater Hoses might be 30 years old.   They are difficult to replace I believe, on A/C car. 
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