[urq] Fw: intermittent no crank

[Patrick Carlier]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick Carlier" <p.carlier at pandora.be>
To: "Keith" <spotatashleys at hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [urq] intermittent no crank


> Had a stater reray gone bad once .
> Sometimes it would work normaly .  .
> At other times it would simply give a click  .
> The solenoid would engage the pinion  allright , but the relay didn't
> send  the 12V to the starter motor .
>
> If it failed , wich alway's happend when people were around :) , it would 
> take four or five click's , turning
> the ign key on and off , before it would finally work .
>
> Taking it apart , cleaning , lubricating , contact spray , resoldering the 
> contacts , changing the brushes . didn't help .
> Salvaged a  relay from a burned starter and it never occured again .
>
> Could be , as your issue is also  intermittend ....
>
> Pat
> .
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Keith" <spotatashleys at hotmail.com>
> To: <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 2:18 PM
> Subject: [urq] intermittent no crank
>
>
>> Anyone who has been on the list for a while may well have read one of my 
>> earlier posts with this title. I’m getting closer to solving it but I’m 
>> not there yet.
>> I think I have had a number of issues running parallel because at one 
>> time it was intermittent no start as opposed to intermittent no crank 
>> because sometimes it would crank and not start and other it would not 
>> crank. Now I just have the intermittent no crank having resolved a number 
>> of issues which I’ll list but now if it cranks it starts and starts 
>> instantly. Trouble is, sometimes there is a no crank issue.
>> So when it was intermittent no start I replaced plugs, cap, rotor arm, 
>> plug leads, coil lead, and coil, new fuel filter, all fuel pressures 
>> tested and confirmed in spec. Things improved. Then to counter the no 
>> crank issue I changed the ignition switch, the main battery to starter 
>> power cable, the battery, the starter the wires for starter solenoid and 
>> feed from there to cold start injector (from the connector behind the RHS 
>> headlight to the starter), yet still I have occasional no crank. This 
>> tends to happen when the battery is a little lower than full charge. I 
>> have tested for a parasitic drain on the battery. Off-Key drain is no 
>> more than 10 mA. The voltage of that battery today was 12.4V. If I 
>> disconnect the lead to the starter solenoid and put a meter on that and 
>> turn the key to start position it shows 11.9V which should be more than 
>> enough to activate the solenoid. This lead runs from the ignition switch 
>> to the jumper in relay position 8 in the fusebox (where an inhibitor 
>> relay would sit in and automatic transmission car) and from there round 
>> the engine bay to the grey connector under the RHS headlight and then on 
>> to the starter solenoid. As I say when this is disconnected and the 
>> voltage measured it shows 11.9V in start position. However, if I 
>> re-connect this to the starter solenoid and this time measure the voltage 
>> at the jumper in the fusebox (key is start position) it only reads 9.4V. 
>> Does anyone have any idea why this should be? I am confused.
>> I feel certain that I could overcome this by simply using a waterproof 
>> relay down at the starter solenoid, using the normal feed to the solenoid 
>> to trigger and take the main power for it from the alternator positive 
>> post but I’d really like to overcome it without have to resort to this.
>> Any words of wisdom gratefully received.
>>
>> Many thanks
>>
>> Keith
>>
>> ‘87 WR in a dismally wet Worcestershire.
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>>
>