[V6-12v] Gear oil, brake job

[Tom Gordon]

Re: rear callipers, I made a tool out of an old box-spanner: I just cut it
down at one end by a few millimetres, but careful to leave two tabs
protruding from the top, suitable to fit into the grooves in the piston.

Because the box spanner has a flats on the other end (as well as the hole
going through the sides for the breaker bar), leverage isn't a problem.
With a hacksaw it took me 5 minutes to make the tool, and 5 minutes to do
the brakes.

To avoid pushing pistons out, the best way that I know of is to do one wheel
at a time from start to finish before moving onto the next.

If I can launch a new problem into the mix, I have a grouching noise when
turning right (but only at slow speeds), usually only at about 3/4 lock.
Have changed brake pads and disks (rotors) and rebuilt the callipers.  I'm
confused - has anyone else been here before?

Tom Gordon
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clive Young" <cyoung1661 at rogers.com>
To: "Tom Christiansen" <tomchr at ee.washington.edu>
Cc: "Audi list" <v6-12v at www.audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Gear oil, brake job


> Tom
>
>  I just finished my rear brakes and you need a tool . The pistons have to
be
> essentially screwed back in . There are two notches in the rear caliper
> piston. A few guys have manufactured tools with big needle nose pliers and
> the such, but a LOT of leverage is required in some cases.
>
> The tool I loaned from my parts supply store is generic and not particular
> to Audi. Just about all  cars it seems now use this system.
>
> This  is basically a piece of steel that sits on the outboard pad caliper
> area that has a threaded hole in it. A big ass threaded rod goes through
> ther that you screw in. on the end of the rod is a disk with the two
"nubs"
> on the end that fit your caliper. As you screw the rod in the piston turns
> in and pushes against the steel plate on the outside of the caliper. It is
a
> GREAT tool and I did botth calipers in less than 5 minutes. Interesting to
> note my car has 240k on it withits first rear repair. I had to turn the
> screwed rod with a 17mm wrench and it was so damn tight I was convinced it
> was seized, but as soon as it moved I could have screwed it in by hand.
> Amazing really.
>
> Oh a word of warning to the uninitiated . I am not sure how audi does the
> hydraulics but to be on the safe side make sure you put a block of wood
> inside the caliper after pushing back the piston. So that when you are
doing
> the opposite side you do not push out the one you just did and end up with
> the piston lying on the floor ( very bad and embarrasing )
>
> Clive
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tom Christiansen" <tomchr at ee.washington.edu>
> To: <getur at optonline.net>
> Cc: "Audi list" <v6-12v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 9:17 PM
> Subject: [V6-12v] Gear oil, brake job
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > Now that we're talking anyway...
> >
> > In the manual for my 1994 90S it is stated that the transmission oil
> > should not be changed during the lifetime of the car. Do you guys agree
> > with this philosophy? If not, which fluid/oil do you suggest instead and
> > which benefits does it have to change the gear oil? Which tools are
> > needed?
> >
> > When doing the rear brakes, I've heard that the caliper piston needs to
> > be screwed back into the caliper. Apparently it can't be pushed straight
> > in. Does anyone know which tool is needed for this operation?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tom
> >
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