[V6-12v] No Idle

[Nathan Widmyer]

Well, I got fed up and actually did it, only over a month later though.

I didn't have a multimeter so I couldn't test resistance nor make sure
the wiring was correct, but I did remove the ISV and clean it out.  I
turned the car on and it idled at right above 600RPM and then very
slowly marched down.  After over a minute, the needle hadn't cleared
the 600 mark on the tach.  Which is an improvement over no idle.  I'm
going to wait a few days and try it again and make sure this wasn't a
fluke.  I had to remove the airhose from the aircleaner to the engine
to remove the nuts with a rachet, then I had to remove some plug right
below the ISV to get the ISV out.  It went along well I guess, nothing
broke off.

Anyone want to comment on this?


On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 18:51:10 -0500 (EST), Elliott Potter
<mailinglist at eep.burdell.org> wrote:
> There are just three studs and then the thing pulls straight off.  You
> want to be a bit careful because the studs thread in to a rubber block,
> so if you hit it too hard or tighten the nuts too much when you're done
> you'll strip them out.
> 
> It shouldn't take too much effort to pull the ISV off the rubber gasket
> though; but there's enough other stuff in that area that maybe it was
> just caught on something.
> --
> Elliott
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 Jamescarstuff at aol.com wrote:
> 
> > I agree totally, that's by far the most likely explanation for the symptoms
> > you're describing. If it doesn't work, send another email as there are some
> > more possibilities, although they're distinctly less probable.
> >
> > By the way, Elliott - I did once try (half-heartedly) to get the ISV off. I
> > found it rather puzzling, as I have the workshop manual with a seemingly clear
> > diagram of how it comes off the head. I'd undone all the nuts on the thing
> > that I could see, and that were in the diagram, yet it still wouldn't budge. I
> > didn't spend long on it, as it was the least likely candidate for the problem
> > (in fact it did prove to be something else entirely on that occasion). But since
> > it's come up, is there some kind of trick to getting those off, or do they
> > get stuck on, and need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet, or something?
> >
> > James
> >
> > In a message dated 15/8/04 5:10:17 pm, mailinglist at eep.burdell.org writes:
> >
> >
> > > On Sun, 15 Aug 2004, Nathan Widmyer wrote:
> > >
> > > > I went to start up the ol Audi last night and instead of idling at
> > > > it's usual place, it went down to about 200RPM's.  I gave it some gas
> > > > to feather the engine and the tach went up then back down and the
> > > > headlights dimmed.  I gave it a little more gas to feather then hover
> > > > the RPM's at around 2000 and then released the clutch.  I let it move
> > > > about a foot then pushed in the clutch and it idled properly from then
> > > > on.
> > >
> > > It may be as simple as a sticky idle stabilizer valve ... you might try
> > > http://www.12v.org/maintenance/repairs/isv.php
> > > and see what happens.
> > > --
> > > Elliott
> >
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