[V6-12v] V6 timing belt

austin@darkroom.com austin at darkroom.com
Thu Aug 4 09:18:24 EDT 2005


Hi Clive,

Replace your coolant overflow tank cap.  It's cheap, and may very well be
causing the problem...I had the same problem, replaced my timing belt,
thermostat and water pump...problem presisted.  Replacing the cap fixed it.
My car is 10 years old and has 70k on it, so it was time to replace the
timing belt etc. anyway.

Take the cap off (with the engine cold) and shake it.  It should rattle
freely.  If it doesn't rattle at all, or only a little, that very well may
be your problem.

Regards,

Austin

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Clive Young cyoung1661 at rogers.com
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:56:58 -0400
To: tomchr at ee.washington.edu, v6-12v at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] V6 timing belt


Hi Tom

Regarding the no heat at idle. 

Thanks for the offer to come out there . I almost feel like driving across
north America  just to put my hand in front of your vents to say , yes I do
have a problem I'm not just imagining it !  

I've been over it and over it and the schematics match my car exactly. It
actually does it at all temperatures but it is only at cold you really
notice it . For example it is 85 F out today . If I put the blower on full
blast heat at idle it will feel about 85 F. If I rev the car at about 2000
rpm I can't even hold my hand there it is so scorching. But let the car idle
back down sure enough back to about 85 F. The problem is obviously the stop
and go traffic on the 401 highway at about -20C in winter ( I am not sure
what farenheit that is . ) at idle it blows about -15c air on you and it is
downright chilly. At lower temps the car is undrivable as it is dangerous to
have no heat in those temps.I am lucky that the air France plane crash this
week was in the summer because it is backed up for miles on the 401 with all
the rubber neckers and it is only .5 an hour from my house so I would have
frozen to death if it had been winter. 

My very last attempt ( which I think is highly unlikely ) will be to replace
both hoses to the heater core ( even though they look fine). And remove the
return pipe back to the water pump from the heater core and inspect it .
Unfortunately it means removing the intake manifold and I am not sure I am
up to that right now given the low probability fix rate. 

If I get the AC working there is only the heater to fix and the cats to
replace and I am done. 

The cats are another story but I will start that email thread after I get
the AC fixed.

PS if you have any questions about the t belt before you start email me
since I did it already. 
Knowing stupid things like loosening  the PS pump pulley bolts while the acc
belt is still on to hold the pulley for you I find are real time savers.

Clive 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Christiansen [mailto:tomchr at ee.washington.edu] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 8:16 PM
To: Clive Young
Subject: RE: [V6-12v] Re: V6 timing belt

Clive,

> Actually I didn't do the seal even though I should have. I just couldn't
be
> bothered. To do it is not a big deal however. Just drill a small hole in
the
> seal with your dremmel and pull it out with a "pick" or piece of stiff
wire
> and some needle nose. Coat the new seal and push it in with a piece of abs
> and a rubber mallet.

Arh... Where there is a will there is a way.

> Since I took the opportunity to change the pump and stat I also converted
to
> Pink G12. I thought I was for sure going to fix that heating problem
> ..grrr..

Well... If you're in for a road trip, you're more than welcome to swing by
and compare the layout of hoses in your car to those in mine. ;-)

I really wonder what's causing the trouble. At which outdoor temp does it
usually start at?

Tom

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