[V6-12v] A/C compressor R&R
Austin Franklin
austin at darkroom.com
Sun Jul 3 14:39:45 EDT 2005
Hi Tom,
GREAT write-ups you do! Thank you for taking the time to do these.
Regards,
Austin
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com]On
> Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 2:02 PM
> To: V6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: [V6-12v] A/C compressor R&R
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I was warned that replacing the A/C compressor and associated parts would
> take 10 hours. I was skeptical.
>
> Here are the parts that need replacement:
> * Compressor
> * Receiver/drier
> * Restrictor valve
> * Assorted o-rings
>
> In my case, I also had to transplant the clutch from the old
> compressor to
> the used replacement I was swapping in there. Swapping the clutch
> is pretty
> easy, but requires three special tools. Thankfully, if you have
> the Bentley
> manual, the ability to use your imagination, and mechanical aptitude you
> won't have any trouble making the tools yourself.
>
> I enlisted the help of a friend of mine. He took care of the
> receiver/drier, restrictor valve, while I worked on getting the
> compressor
> out. Everything is pretty straight forward - mostly accessible
> from underneath.
>
> WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
>
> 0) Before you begin have the system evacuated by a professional shop.
> 1) Remove belly pan, engine top cover, radiator fans, accessory
> belt cover.
> 2) Remove oil filter (you can do this without draining the oil in
> the oil pan).
> 3) Clamp off the coolant lines to the oil cooler.
> 4) Remove oil cooler (pulling it off to the side won't give you
> enough room).
> 5) Disconnect the compressor speed sensor and clutch connector. The two
> green connectors are hiding in the harness by the radiator fan resistor
> pack. Pull the wires back so they can dangle in your face while
> you try to
> get the compressor out.
> 6) Remove three of the four bolts holding the compressor. Loosen
> the fourth
> bolt (the one that has a nut on it). The bolts are made of steel and
> threaded into an aluminum bracket. Thus, they will take some amount of
> effort and/or penetrating oil to brake free.
> 7) Disconnect the A/C lines from the compressor (sounds MUCH
> easier than it
> is). A regular box end wrench fits but you can only turn the flare nuts
> about 1/16 of a turn at a time.
> 8) Remove the last bolt from the compressor and pull the compressor
> forward, lift up. You'll spill an undisclosed amount of oil on
> your garage
> floor getting the compressor out...
> 9) Install is reverse of removal... ;-) Replace all o-rings you've taken
> out. Keep everything clean and coat the new o-rings with PAG 46 oil.
> Remember that the new compressor should have 250 ml (+/-20 ml) of PAG 46
> oil in it when it's installed. If you can't get all the oil into the
> compressor prior to install, you can add at the supply hose (accessible
> from the top) later.
> 10) Turn the compressor at least 10 turns by hand before recharging with
> refrigerant.
> 11) Remember to add engine oil and coolant.
>
> I didn't handle the R&R of the receiver/drier and restrictor valve. But I
> didn't hear any significant amount of grumbling from my friend
> who handled
> that part of the job. The restrictor is located in the supply line to the
> evaporator by the firewall. There's one bolt holding the bracket with the
> two lines. Remove this bolt and pull the restrictor out with a pair of
> needle nose pliers.
>
> The receiver/drier is held in place by two large hose clamps.
> Just undo the
> connections, open up the clamps all the way, and replace the
> receiver/drier
> canister.
>
> Even though I had the system evacuated, there was still a bit of pressure
> in there. Probably not much, but enough to give a puff and
> spatter some oil
> when the receiver/drier was disconnected. Wear eye protection!!!!
>
> The flare nuts are 30 mm and 32 mm. Most of them take 40 Nm of
> torque, but
> I wish you the best of luck getting a torque wrench on there... The bolt
> holding the two lines to the firewall connection takes 15 Nm. The
> compressor bolts 25 Nm.
>
> Including two tool runs, one parts run, lunch, coffee break, tool
> clean-up
> we spent 9 hours on the job. I'd guess 5-6 of those were actual work. If
> you are by yourself and have all the parts, tools, I'd set aside 10 hours
> for the job.
>
> Now I just need to get the system charged...
>
> Tom
>
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