[V6-12v] Respray

[James Whitehouse]

Hi Kent,

That's pragmatic advice. I was thinking removing the windows and trim would
probably be necessary, otherwise it would end up the same as the current
respray, where you can see how they've taped around such things, but as you
say was also thinking of finding a good independent resprayer (much like my
actual mechanic) who will let me do some of the easy preparatory steps like
removing some of the trim myself to save on the labour costs.

It's a long-term thing for if I keep the car. It seems to be mechanically
pretty sound, probably needs new shocks and some new bushes/ rubber mounts,
I'm swapping in the interior from my FWD because it's better. Like I say you
wouldn't really notice the respray until you were up close, so I'll ask the
shop about the potential longevity of that job and whether they'd need to
take it back to the factory paint (I'd probably not want it back to bare
metal as it could compromise the galvanization, and also the factory base is
a very good base coat on an Audi, I should think!).

Cheers, and all the best for the Festive Season!

James


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kent McLean [mailto:kentmclean at comcast.net]
> Sent: 25 December 2006 15:52
> To: 'Audi list'
> Cc: James Whitehouse
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Respray
> 
> James Whitehouse wrote:
> > In any case, I wondered if anyone had any experience of getting a good,
> > complete respray done on these cars. A friend of mine who's an Audi
> mechanic
> > reckoned about £2500 for a proper job with the windows out and trim
> removed
> > by a reputable shop where the job will last properly. I'm more concerned
> > that they'll have problems getting rid of the last semi-crappy job
> though.
> 
> I'm no expert, but to "do it right" the windows would have to come out.
> And on an older car, the rubber seals for the windows may not take the
> abuse, so you may want to plan on replacing the rubber seals ($$$, or
> rather £££). The more trim that comes off (for a better, no-overspray
> job), the more it will cost.  You may be able to find a painter that
> will let you remove the trim (and windows, if you are up to it) to
> save you some on the labor.
> 
> As for the crappy paint job, your painter will best be able to answer
> that question. Is the old paint compatible with the new?  Will it make
> a sound foundation if it is sanded smooth? Does it have to be sanded
> back to the original factory paint? Do you want it sanded back to bare
> metal? Each step adds £££s to the total.
> 
> Me? My 100S hood has a 3-foot long crack in it. It would cost more to
> repaint the hood than the car is worth, so I pragmatically live with it.
> 
> Peace.
> 
> --
> Kent McLean
> '94 100 S Avant, "Moody"
> '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" up in smoke
> 
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