[V6-12v] [Bulk] Re: Thermostat lifespan
James Whitehouse
james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk
Thu Jul 6 14:40:05 EDT 2006
Hi Tom,
Glad your thermostat problem is solved. I have to do mine shortly. The only
thing that your excellent procedure, and the workshop manual I have, doesn't
describe in detail is the correct bleeding procedure for the coolant refill.
Any pointers here?
Best regards,
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com] On
> Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
> Sent: 06 July 2006 17:12
> To: v6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: [Bulk] Re: [V6-12v] Thermostat lifespan
>
> Austin (et. al):
>
> The old thermostat (BBT brand) was broken in two. The new thermostat
> ($30 at the stealership) Wahler brand fixed the problem.
>
>
> Tom
>
> On 7/5/06, Austin Franklin <austin.franklin at charter.net> wrote:
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > But...did replacing the thermostat solve the problem?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Austin
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-
> bounces at audifans.com]On
> > > Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:42 PM
> > > To: v6-12v at audifans.com
> > > Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Thermostat lifespan
> > >
> > >
> > > Folks,
> > >
> > > Quick recap: It took for ever for the engine in my 1994 90S to warm up
> > > and I had no heat at the vents. Only in stop & go traffic would the
> > > engine warm up (in 60-70 deg F (15-20 C) weather).
> > >
> > > I shook the expansion tank cap and it did not rattle. This can be a
> > > sign of a stuck valve, which, according to several list members can
> > > cause the system to show the symptoms I describe. A new cap was about
> > > $6.50 at the dealer so it was worth a try. Unfortunately, it did not
> > > fix the problem.
> > >
> > > So I replaced the thermostat, which on the AAH/AFC engines can be done
> > > without removing the timing belt. Here's how I did it:
> > >
> > > 1) Remove belly pan, top engine cover. Drain coolant and dispose
> > > of it properly.
> > > 2) Remove radiator fans to give you more room.
> > > 3) Remove front plastic cover on engine.
> > > 4) Remove accessory belt and tensioner.
> > > 5) Remove timing belt covers. Be careful as the plastic can be
> > > rather brittle.
> > > 6) Remove the coolant hose at the thermostat housing.
> > > 7) Remove two 10 mm bolts that hold the housing. One is above the
> > > idler/roller for the timing belt, the other is under the large pulley
> > > at the top (use a 1/4" drive socket, universal joint, and a short
> > > extension).
> > > 8) Wiggle the thermostat housing out from underneath the timing belt.
> > > 9) Replace thermostat and the O-ring around it.
> > > 10) Assembly is reverse of removal.
> > >
> > > Remember to bleed the system when you fill it with coolant. Getting
> > > the thermostat housing out is a real chore as the thermostat gets
> > > caught on it. But it is possible to get it out (the Bentley Manual
> > > even says so). It took me around 15 minutes to get it out. 10-15
> > > minutes to get it back in. The whole procedure took 1.5 hours. Add 30
> > > minutes for bleeding the system (waiting for the engine to heat up)
> > > and tool clean-up.I took the time to make sure the timing belt was
> > > clean and I rotated the engine a couple of revs by hand before putting
> > > the covers on. Just as a precaution.
> > >
> > > Relevant torques:
> > > Thermostat housing bolts: 10 Nm
> > > Accessory belt bolt: 55 Nm
> > > Bleed screw in the hard coolant line by the EGR valve: 15 Nm
> > >
> > >
> > > Tom
> > > _______________________________________________
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