[V6-12v] [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: Thermostat lifespan

Clive Young cyoung1661 at rogers.com
Sun Jul 9 13:15:03 EDT 2006 

The trick to the upper bleed screw is overfilling the expansion tank. I keep
a windsheild washer pump hooked to a piece of tubing just for this. I got it
at the wreckers for like 2.00. Fill the expansion tank until the coolant
comes out of the heater bleed screw, the expansion tank should be just about
full. Cap off the bleed screw and pump out the over filled coolant back into
a coolant container narked " premix" for future top ups. 

Done... 

-----Original Message-----
From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of James Whitehouse
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 8:49 PM
To: 'Tom Christiansen'
Cc: v6-12v at audifans.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [V6-12v] [Bulk] Re: Thermostat lifespan

Tom,

Thanks for that, excellent detail, much appreciated. In the UK we no longer
have the 'flushing G11 to use G12' issue, as the standard fill from Audi UK
is now G12+, which is backward compatible with G11 and G12 (believe it or
not). However, since I'm draining the system, I'll do a flush as a matter of
course anyway to make sure everything is clean and clear.

Cheers,
James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Christiansen [mailto:tomchr at gmail.com]
> Sent: 07 July 2006 01:45
> To: James Whitehouse
> Cc: v6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [Bulk] Re: [V6-12v] Thermostat lifespan
> 
> James,
> 
> Drain plugs: One on the port side, lower of the radiator. One on the
> port side, aft of the engine (I believe it's a 8 mm socket head).
> Bleed screws: One in the return line from the heater core. One in the
> hard coolant line port side, aft of engine (by the EGR valve). 5 mm
> socket head.
> 
> Fill procedure:
> 1) Close all drain plugs.
> 2) Open all bleed screws.
> 3) Add 50/50 mix of Audi G12 (red) coolant and distilled water.
> 4) Close the bleed screws when the coolant starts coming out. For
> obvious reasons this means that the lower bleed screw is closed much
> sooner than the top bleed screw.
> 5) Fill the expansion tank to the MAX mark.
> 6) Replace expansion tank cap.
> 7) Start engine and run at idle until the rad fans have come on at least
> once.
> 8) Fill expansion tank to MAX if needed. Be careful with the hot
> coolant. Note that the system is under pressure.
> 
> Note that if your cooling system had anything other than the red Audi
> G12 coolant in it before, you need to flush it thoroughly at least
> twice before adding G12 coolant.
> 
> There's some debate about whether you should use the G12 or use any
> long-life coolant. I'll leave it up to you to make that decision.
> Similar for distilled water vs deionized water vs tap water.
> Basically, you want water with a low mineral content. If your local
> tap water fits the bill, you can probably use it. I, personally, use
> Audi G12 coolant + tap water.
> 
> I've never been able to get any coolant to come out of the top bleed
> screw (the one in the heater hose). I don't know if it's because I
> don't have a super level piece of road to park the car on or what.
> When I have bled the system I've ended up having to fill the expansion
> tank to the point where the fluid no longer sinks below the max mark,
> then start the engine and let it idle. Once the fluid heats up it'll
> expand and drive the air out of the system through the top bleed
> screw. Once coolant (now rather hot coolant may I add) comes out the
> top bleed screw, I close it and continue to allow the engine to run
> until the rad fans come on. Then follow step 8) above.
> 
> Above has worked for me. Your mileage may vary.
> 
> Tom
> 
> On 7/6/06, James Whitehouse <james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > Glad your thermostat problem is solved. I have to do mine shortly. The
> only
> > thing that your excellent procedure, and the workshop manual I have,
> doesn't
> > describe in detail is the correct bleeding procedure for the coolant
> refill.
> > Any pointers here?
> >
> > Best regards,
> > James
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com]
> On
> > > Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
> > > Sent: 06 July 2006 17:12
> > > To: v6-12v at audifans.com
> > > Subject: [Bulk] Re: [V6-12v] Thermostat lifespan
> > >
> > > Austin (et. al):
> > >
> > > The old thermostat (BBT brand) was broken in two. The new thermostat
> > > ($30 at the stealership) Wahler brand fixed the problem.
> > >
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > > On 7/5/06, Austin Franklin <austin.franklin at charter.net> wrote:
> > > > Hi Tom,
> > > >
> > > > But...did replacing the thermostat solve the problem?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > >
> > > > Austin
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-
> > > bounces at audifans.com]On
> > > > > Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:42 PM
> > > > > To: v6-12v at audifans.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Thermostat lifespan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Folks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Quick recap: It took for ever for the engine in my 1994 90S to
> warm up
> > > > > and I had no heat at the vents. Only in stop & go traffic would
> the
> > > > > engine warm up (in 60-70 deg F (15-20 C) weather).
> > > > >
> > > > > I shook the expansion tank cap and it did not rattle. This can be
> a
> > > > > sign of a stuck valve, which, according to several list members
> can
> > > > > cause the system to show the symptoms I describe. A new cap was
> about
> > > > > $6.50 at the dealer so it was worth a try. Unfortunately, it did
> not
> > > > > fix the problem.
> > > > >
> > > > > So I replaced the thermostat, which on the AAH/AFC engines can be
> done
> > > > > without removing the timing belt. Here's how I did it:
> > > > >
> > > > > 1) Remove belly pan, top engine cover. Drain coolant and dispose
> > > > > of it properly.
> > > > > 2) Remove radiator fans to give you more room.
> > > > > 3) Remove front plastic cover on engine.
> > > > > 4) Remove accessory belt and tensioner.
> > > > > 5) Remove timing belt covers. Be careful as the plastic can be
> > > > > rather brittle.
> > > > > 6) Remove the coolant hose at the thermostat housing.
> > > > > 7) Remove two 10 mm bolts that hold the housing. One is above the
> > > > > idler/roller for the timing belt, the other is under the large
> pulley
> > > > > at the top (use a 1/4" drive socket, universal joint, and a short
> > > > > extension).
> > > > > 8) Wiggle the thermostat housing out from underneath the timing
> belt.
> > > > > 9) Replace thermostat and the O-ring around it.
> > > > > 10) Assembly is reverse of removal.
> > > > >
> > > > > Remember to bleed the system when you fill it with coolant.
> Getting
> > > > > the thermostat housing out is a real chore as the thermostat gets
> > > > > caught on it. But it is possible to get it out (the Bentley Manual
> > > > > even says so). It took me around 15 minutes to get it out. 10-15
> > > > > minutes to get it back in. The whole procedure took 1.5 hours. Add
> 30
> > > > > minutes for bleeding the system (waiting for the engine to heat
> up)
> > > > > and tool clean-up.I took the time to make sure the timing belt was
> > > > > clean and I rotated the engine a couple of revs by hand before
> putting
> > > > > the covers on. Just as a precaution.
> > > > >
> > > > > Relevant torques:
> > > > > Thermostat housing bolts: 10 Nm
> > > > > Accessory belt bolt: 55 Nm
> > > > > Bleed screw in the hard coolant line by the EGR valve: 15 Nm
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > V6-12v mailing list
> > > > > V6-12v at audifans.com
> > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v6-12v
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > V6-12v mailing list
> > > > V6-12v at audifans.com
> > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v6-12v
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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