[V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors

Wed Sep 27 15:20:41 EDT 2006

Hi Clive,

Thanks - more write up with pics coming!

The exhaust manifold-to-cat bolts were fairly easy, but they'd only been on
a couple of years since I replaced the original cats, and all bolts were
replaced too and coated with anti-seize paste at that time.

Spray the nuts well with penetrating oil, or similar and leave them to soak.
If they're still stiff when you try to undo them, screw them tight again,
respray with penetrating oil, then try again.

I didn't break any studs (there are indeed three studs coming out of the
manifold), but one of them screwed out instead of the nut itself! This isn't
a problem, as you can either just get a new stud, or cut the nut off.

Cheers,

James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clive Young [mailto:cyoung1661 at rogers.com]
> Sent: 23 September 2006 03:21
> To: James Whitehouse; 'Joe - Audi'
> Cc: v6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
> 
> great write up James
> 
> I have been woried about getting the cats of the exhaust manifolds as I
> need
> new cats. It looks impossible to get to . It looks like three studs coming
> from the exhaust manifold that go through the cat flange and 3 nuts go on
> .
> Is this the case and how did you get them off, did you think that one of
> the
> studs could break >?
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Whitehouse" <james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "'Joe - Audi'" <audi at olderie.com>
> Cc: <v6-12v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> The vice grips in combination with the hex key did the job, thanks!
> 
> Here are my impressions so far, and a list of things that have been
> problematic. I've copied in the mailing list in case this is useful to
> anyone else in the future.
> 
> First of all, I need to clarify that we're doing a more major overhaul
> than
> just the head gasket replacements. It needed a new clutch too, so the
> decision was made to take out the engine, which means stripping down a
> little more.
> 
> Overall, don't attempt it without the manual. It would be a nightmare. At
> the very least make sure you have all the torque settings to hand. Don't
> attempt anything that involves taking off the timing belt unless you have
> access to the special tools 3243 and 3242 (cam locator and crank pin
> respectively):
> 
> http://www.big-
> auto.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=VW3243AND3242&CTMP
> =1
> 
> Firstly, there are a whole mess of wires and vacuum tubes surrounding and
> attaching to different parts of the top end. I'd label these so you know
> where to put them back. Some of the plugs are colour coded on the
> baulkhead,
> but aren't obvious at the component end. The vacuum hoses aren't
> necessarily
> marked.
> 
> Secondly, have some little food bags and a permanent marker pen to write
> on
> them. There are a lot of little bolts, nuts, etc. of different sizes and
> you
> could very easily get very confused!
> 
> Have replacement parts for things like exhaust manifold nuts, exhaust
> manifold-to-cat nuts, etc. ready as well as the obvious gaskets etc. Some
> of
> those parts are dealer only and some are so seized on that you're always
> going to strip one or two getting in there. Putting new ones on also means
> this is less likely to happen in future.
> 
> Some of the intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts are a pain in the a**
> to
> get to, as are the valve cover bolts. Make sure you have the right tools.
> A
> long 5 and 6 mm hex socket is very useful, particularly with a ball end
> for
> these. While the intake manifold is off, it's silly not to replace the
> intake manifold gaskets, particularly the one that is sandwiched in the
> intake manifold loop itself, as this cannot be changed with the manifold
> on
> the car, and every time you take the manifold off you have to re-tighten
> the
> head bolts. To change this you'll have to remove the injectors, so also
> have
> 6 injector seals (they should come in your head gasket set, Reinz ones are
> very good).
> 
> Likewise, it's wise to replace the 'oil retention valves' which sit under
> the little oval cover in the valley of the top of the V. Since otherwise
> you
> have to take it all apart again if these ever give trouble. Absolutely
> replace the gasket under this cover in any case, as it's a £2 part and is
> renowned for blowing and you do not want to take the intake off just to
> get
> at that, believe me. I replaced mine about a year and a half ago and I'm
> doing it again now because I'd be mental not to.
> 
> Make sure you have ways of dealing with de-threaded nuts, etc. or a friend
> with more experience in case you get stuck. I was lucky that I had a very
> experienced mechanic around (although on the first day he was ill so I did
> most of the strip-down myself). This brings me to another point. Having a
> fully equipped workshop, with a car lift has been tremendously helpful. I
> would almost say that I wouldn't like to attempt this job without one. It
> could certainly be done, but I would leave much longer than normal to do
> the
> job unless you're very proficient or used to working in this way.
> 
> Also very useful is a compressed air line. Among other things this is
> useful
> for making sure the cylinder bolt holes are free of oil and coolant.
> Unless
> you clean out those holes properly, you're looking for trouble as any
> liquid
> down there can get compressed when putting the new cylinder head bolts
> back
> in and cause hydraulic bottoming out of the head bolts. This firstly means
> they won't tighten fully, and at worse can crack the block under pressure.
> 
> This brings us on to another subject, which is oiling the cylinder head
> bolts. They do require a light oiling. This doesn't affect tightening
> torques as the bolts are angle tightened at the last stage. A light oiling
> means spraying a bit of oil onto the bolt while held in a rag, then wiping
> the oily rag around the bolt threads. It is important that there is no
> excess/ dripping amounts of oil as this can have the same effect as not
> cleaning out the bolt holes (see above).
> 
> For more info on this, and general cylinder head gasket issues, see:
> 
> www.reinz.de/pictures/praxisinfo_3_eng.pdf
> 
> www.reinz.de/pictures/praxisinfo_2_eng.pdf
> 
> Make sure you have a way of cleaning off the carbon and other crap from
> the
> mating surfaces before applying the new gasket. My heads are being skimmed
> a
> fraction just to make sure, but I'm in a shop where they have the
> equipment
> and expertise to do this in-house.
> 
> You may want to have a couple of the little locator pins (like little
> hollow
> dowels (about 6mm x 22mm) that sit on the upper block and 'locate' the
> head
> gaskets, essentially holding them in place while you lower the head onto
> the
> gasket. They can either stay on the block, or in the heads, or shear off.
> The Audi dealer will likely have no idea what you're talking about and try
> to tell you they 'only come with the block'. But they do exist. I'll try
> to
> post a part number if someone reminds me. Since they are 30 pence each,
> it's
> better to have new ones in case, rather than having to wait for them to
> arrive if they break.
> 
> The only solution I haven't found a problem to yet, is getting the coolant
> out of the block since mine is gunged up down by the bottom drain plug.
> We're hoping this will be easier once the engine is out. If anyone thinks
> of
> anything or any way they know to get at this from inside the block, please
> let me know!
> 
> That's about as far as I've got so far. I'll update and post a few pics at
> some point.
> 
> Cheers,
> James
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Joe - Audi [mailto:audi at olderie.com]
> > Sent: 21 September 2006 00:26
> > To: James Whitehouse
> > Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
> >
> >
> > On Sep 20, 2006, at 5:53 PM, James Whitehouse wrote:
> >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm halfway into the head gasket stripdown. Two problems:
> > >
> > > Firstly, some monkey before me has rounded out the interior hex of
> > > the valve
> > > cover bolts (two of them). Any tips for removing these short of
> > > drilling
> > > them out? I'm thinking a reverse tap of some kind?
> >
> > Vice-grips have saved me in similar situations before with those
> > types of bolts.  Of course, you may not have enough room in there to
> > get a pair clamped on...
> >
> > -Joe
> >
> > P.S.  I've been anxiously following your thread to hear the results.
> > I need to do the same work on my '94 100 w/ 175k miles but have never
> > performed that type of engine work before.  Not sure if I'm up for
> > the task.  Please let us know how long it takes and what other major
> > issues you run into along the way!
> >
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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