[V6-12v] Head gasket replacement

Frank Chapchuk chapchuk at hotmail.com
Sat Mar 10 12:23:30 EST 2007


Tom,

I sent Eyvind the drawing for the tool. I can post it to the list when I get 
back to work on Monday

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tom Christiansen" <tomchr at gmail.com>
To: "Eyvind E. Spangen" <200q20v at bluezone.no>
CC: v6-12v at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 17:14:59 -0800

Folks,

Yeah, I believe I still have the specs somewhere. It would be highly
unlike me to throw them out. I recall getting drawings from someone
who crafted the tool from a piece of wood, some aluminum brackets, and
a couple of bolts. The trick is the cam locking tool. I bought mine on
eBay (zdmak tools I think the seller's ID was) for about $40.

I'll dig out the drawings for the cam holder when I get home.

Tom

On 3/9/07, James Whitehouse <james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
 > Eyvind,
 >
 > I have the specs for the cam-tool somewhere, I think I gave them to Tom a 
while back also. They're not too hard to make up yourself. I'll look them up 
for you, or Tom might still have the dimensions to hand...
 >
 > The difficult one to measure up (and construct) is the crank tool. But 
they're not that expensive to buy, you can get them from US sites on the 
internet...
 >
 > Cheers,
 > James
 >
 > "Eyvind E. Spangen" <200q20v at bluezone.no> wrote:                        
Thanks a lot!
 >   The thing is that I live in Norway, Europe. There are nobody here that 
has got the special tools for rent, only the dealerships have them and they 
definitely don't hire them out.. ;) You have an UK mail address, do you live 
in the UK?
 >
 >   The tool problem is the only reason for doing it this way. I have 
thought about doing some other work like the valve stem seals and lifters 
like you said, and if I find a way to get my hands on the special tools 
without buying them (big $$), I'll do it.
 >
 >   I'll do all gaskets I get to. I'm actually considering pulling the 
engine, replacing the oil pan gasket (not leaking, more like sweating oil, 
no dripping) and replacing the old, tired clutch (it's a 5-speed) while I'm 
in there..
 >
 >   Again, thanks a lot for your tips, I'll check out every possible way to 
find the special tools! If you could send me your pictures, it'd be great 
help!
 >
 >
 >   Cheers,
 >   Eyvind S.
 >
 >
 >     From: James Whitehouse [mailto:james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk]
 >  Sent: 7. mars 2007 21:06
 >  To: Eyvind E. Spangen; v6-12v at audifans.com
 >  Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
 >
 >
 >   Hi Eyvind,
 >
 >  I did the head gaskets not long ago, it's not that bad, just make sure 
you use the cam and crank locking tools to get the timing spot on when you 
put her back together.
 >
 >  Is there any particular reason for not wanting to remove the cam 
sprockets? If your engine has done 300K miles and you're having to do the 
head gaskets, I'd personally take the opportunity to do a few other things. 
Valve stem seals and new lifters are a doddle with the heads off and cams 
out. I did both these, and re-lapped the valves into their seats. Worked 
wonders, engine is roughly twice as smooth and a third again as powerful as 
before.
 >
 >  Unless you have a specific reason, I'd do this. It won't make any 
difference to having to re-time the car by leaving the sprockets on really, 
if you absolutely *must* do the job without hiring the special tools, just 
make sure the two locator holes on the cam ends are horizontal, with (from 
memory, but I'll check it for you) the smaller holes facing inwards. That's 
all the cam locking tool does - lock the cams in that position while you 
tension the belt; this is the reason why you'll find it hard if you just 
mark the cams because you'll have to find a way to hold the crank and two 
cams dead still while tensioning the belt to get it spot on.
 >
 >  Whether or not you remove the cams, definitely replace the valley pan 
gasket and consider replacing the oil retention valve underneath it. 
Replacing these neccessitates removing the intake manifold, and when you do 
this you must re-tighten the head bolts by a quarter turn. Again, I'd take 
this opportunity to do it while you already have the intake manifold off.
 >
 >  If you decide to do more while you're in there, don't hesitate to ask 
for procedures and I even have some pics from when I was doing all this.
 >
 >  Cheers,
 >  James
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
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