[V6-12v] Starter motor

[Clive Young]

Thanks for the responses guys, the one end is pretty straight forward as it 
fastens to aneyelet that goes over the relay, the other is more trcky asit 
is power crimped and spot welded to the strter lug. my plan is to make a 
second end as suggested and have it tac welded to the lug. I don't think 
solder is strong enough in this aplication and I think it gets pretty damn 
hot with the current running through it , to bad we can't post pics.. oh 
well I will update everyone on my progress,
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Austin Franklin" <austin.franklin at charter.net>
To: <v6-12v at audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Starter motor


> Hi Clive,
>
> If you have the connectors, you can go to an auto supply store and buy a
> ground strap.  They typically go between the engine and the frame/chassis,
> or hood and chassis.  You can probably use one end of it as it already is,
> and simply cut it to length, and add an old connector to the other end by
> obviously removing it from the old braid, and soldering it to the new 
> braid.
>
> Or, if you can find a place that rebuilds starters, they'll have this part
> easily, and perhaps they'll even sell it to you ;-)
>
> Regards,
>
> Austin
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v6-12v-bounces at audifans.com]On
>> Behalf Of Tom Christiansen
>> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:17 PM
>> To: Clive Young
>> Cc: v6-12v at audifans.com
>> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Starter motor
>>
>>
>> Clive,
>>
>> No experience personally, but if the braid is made of copper and you
>> have a good way of cleaning it to the point where all the copper is
>> shiny, you should be able to solder a link on there.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Nov 25, 2007 10:46 AM, Clive Young <cyoung1661 at rogers.com> wrote:
>> > Well for those following I got it off eventually.
>> >
>> > The upper bolt comes from the back of the transmision above the
>> axle. This
>> > is an absolute nightmare to get at as ther is no room for a
>> wrench or socket
>> > as the lower wishbone is in the way, the cat , and the axle. No
>> chance in
>> > hell.
>> >
>> > I ended getting at it from above and removing the air filer,
>> MAF and hose.
>> > I could not use a breaker bar as there was no room to get it in
>> and swing
>> > it. I bought a 6 point 16mm socket with a half  inch drive. I
>> could get the
>> > standard handle in but had no leverage. i made sure the socket
>> was on good
>> > reached in with both arms and leveraged my whole weight. it moved a 
>> > tiny
>> > amount but that is all I needed. worked it back and forth and 2 minutes
>> > later it was off.
>> >
>> > The motor is now out and I can see the problem. The braided
>> line tha runs
>> > from he strter to the solenoid i completely coroded away. I
>> just can't see
>> > replacing the whole assembly just for this. I am going to see
>> if I can get a
>> > link welded on. Anyone have any coments or experience wit this ?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Dr. Gary E. RAFE" <drgerlists at gmail.com>
>> > To: <cyoung1661 at rogers.com>
>> > Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:36 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Starter motor
>> >
>> >
>> > > cyoung1661 at rogers.com wrote:
>> > > !Gary did you have to pull the alternator to get at it? I see no 
>> > > other
>> > > way. If you have any tips I would appreciate it.
>> > > !Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network
>> > >
>> > > We had our local (non-dealer) shop do the work.
>> > > Cost us 2hrs of standard labor,
>> > > which, I believe, involved lowering the front sub-frame
>> > > to get at the starter motor. --Gary
>> > > --
>> > > Dr Gary E RAFE: drgerlists at gmail dot com
>> >
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>> >
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