[V8] Trans / Axle Removal RMS
dsaad at icehouse.net
dsaad at icehouse.net
Tue Dec 2 19:22:36 EST 2003
Not sure if I fully understand your question, but the procedure in the manual
has you remove the axles before pulling the trans. You need a triple square
tool to get the bolts off from the drive flange, but you will have the subframe
off so access is easy. I would go ahead and replace all four boots now too.
Even though the inners may look good, you "get" to disassemble the joints,
clean them up good and install fresh grease. There will be no easier time than
during this job.
I found my joints to be in good shape so I figure they will last way longer now
that they are freshened up.
I also found the RMS was available for about $8. Many folks here recomend going
with the whole new rear cover but I got by with only the seal. I think the oil
leaks usually come from the rear cover to oil pan junction so you may want to
consider replaceing all those gaskets too. (its only aother $250 or so :)
Dave
Quoting CoultL at aol.com:
> I am finally getting to the seeping RMS. I got the car way up on stands
>
> tonight and found that the drivers side outer CV boot is toast. I have
> all manual
> sections pertaining to the trans removal and it all looks doable. When
> I
> remove the trans and the big bolt holding the CV joint to the hub, will
> the outer
> CV joint just pull from the hub?..is is splined or something? I would
> really
> appreciate any BTDTs or a heads up for the trans removal and axle
> removal.
> Is there anything else I really should do while I am in there. I think
> I might
> do the other outer boot and the drive flange seals. Thanks in advance.
>
> -Justin Lewis
> 1990 V8 (120k miles)
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