[V8] Stalling problem

[dsaad at icehouse.net]

WAG of the day:

I agree Shawn - you have some sort of intermittent electrical problem.

Be absolutely certain that the idle switch works reliably and that all 
connectors are in good shape. If is fairly common for the female side of 
connectors to get bent out of shape. (I won't go into detail, but it is usually 
the result of a too big probe being jammed in there :-)
The ISV can draw fairly large instantaneous current. If there is resistance in 
the wires or connectors then the ISV will not get the current it needs to work 
quickly. (The ISV is a current device - not a voltage device)
In electrical terms, current = torque and in your case either the ISV is not 
getting the required amount of current or it is not being commanded to operate 
soon enough because the idle switch is hosed.

I don't get the lambda sensor code, but just dis-connect it for a few days. If 
the problem persists then it is probably OK - but look over the 
connectors/connections closely. I suspect this is a symptom - not a cause.

as I said though this is a Monday morning WAG. I am not a mechanic, nor do I 
play one on TV.

Dave





Quoting Shawn Head <s4qtro at bellsouth.net>:

> Alright guys, I am really getting aggravated with this one.
> 
>  
> 
> As some of you know, for the past 6 months or so, my car has been having
> a
> high idle/stalling problem.  The only fault codes that are thrown are:
> Lambda (oxygen) sensor intermittent 8:10.  
> 
>  
> 
> The measuring blocks show that the load is low around 23 when it is
> supposed
> to be around 33.  The O2 sensor reading gets erratic sometimes peaking
> out
> at 166.
> 
>  
> 
> I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice, replaced injector seals,
> cleaned
> both the ISV and Trottle Body, and Switched out the ISV and MAF sensor
> from
> Dad's 90 hanger queen to no avail.
> 
>  
> 
> Here are the symptom.  Upon starting the car the idle stays around 900
> until
> the car warms up and the oil pressure comes down to normal.  However,
> when I
> stop at a light when the engine is cold or warm the car will sometimes
> stall.   The engine RPM's will either drop to 100RPM and Jump up to 1200
> RPM
> in order to recover, or the car will simply stall.  This is even more of
> a
> problem when I am reversing.  Particularly while parking/backing out of
> parking spots.
> 
>  
> 
> I am convinced that this isn't a mechanical problem but an electrical
> problem.  It is as though there is a signal that is missing, or that
> hiccups
> for a second and makes the car stall at the light.  
> 
>  
> 
> What are my possibilities and solutions?  Short of replacing everything!
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Shawn Head
> 
> '91 V8 Pearl/Nautica
> 
>  
> 
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