[V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s

[Buchholz, Steven]

... responses interspersed below ...
> 
> Ok, This PS TB cover is a real PITA!!!!!

AGREED!

> I have removed every 12mm bolt, the generator, the 13mm bolt and the small
> hex head bolt at the top.  Do any of you remember having an 8 or 9mm hex
> head bolt below the serpentine belt tensioner??  I have one that is now
> rounded off.  It is right below the 12mm semi hidden bolt you remove that
is
> hidden under the tensioner.  This "Hex bolt" I am having trouble with is
> also only accessible by rotating the tensioner.  This leads me to the
> subject line....

... you know, at first I was going to say that it was just the 13mm and 12mm
[head size] bolts, but now that I'm thinking about it I do remember some
smaller sized fasteners which had a molded flange in the base.  Basically,
if you find any fasteners outside the ones used for the serpentine belt
tensioning mechanism remove them.  Rather than assume you know, I thought I
would note that there is a nut which is there to allow you to more easily
compress the spring/damper on the serpentine belt tensioner.  There are
bolts that are accessed with the tensioner in the released state and others
that require the tensioner to be pushed back and pinned.  
> 
> I have the front bumper off the car and want some advice on removing the
> radiator.  Do I need to disconnect the trans oil lines and the AC
condenser?
> My Trans lines coming into the bottom of the radiator look very, corroded
> and brittle.  I do not want to touch them if at all possible.  I need to
> pull the radiator to get a better look at this bolt that I need to somehow
> remove.

Given this fact I would recommend that you leave the radiator attached.
Granted, the job is considerably easier with the core support out of the way
... but it is not required.  What you may want to do is to loosen the bolts
that attach the core support on the passenger's side ... it will probably
make removing the cover a bit easier because you can make a bit more room
for it to clear the upper radiator flange.  When I pulled the engine on #2 I
had a bear of a time popping those oil cooler lines from the radiator ... if
you think they are weak at all they might well fail with all the motion ...
> 
> This is the first time I have done a TB job on a V8, so far it has not
been
> very fun!!!  I also have the cam locking plates, can anyone give a brief
> synapses of why they have two sets of holes on each side?  Shouldn't you
> only be able to lock the cams in place in one position?  

... the plates *will* lock in only one position.  There is a locating pin on
the distributor mount which sets the reference ... then you install the
distributor hold down screws in whichever holes line up with the ones on the
plate.  I had a bit of fun getting the cam pulley to come loose on the
driver's side bank.  

I don't know how much archive diving you've done, but you should carefully
review the cam belt tensioning mechanism.  I almost lost the engine in #344
because the "friction piece" had worn completely through and caused metal to
metal contact on the tensioning pivot.  I'll bet that when they put the
engine back together from the earlier TB breakage (when the car was owned by
someone else) they did not replace the friction piece.  I recommend the
friction piece be replaced every time the TB is changed, and the entire
tensioning mechanism be tested to make sure it operates smoothly.  I
replaced the Damper/Spring assembly on #344 as well, but it isn't clear that
was actually required.  

Of course you also want to give good consideration to replacing the water
pump, oil seals and rollers at this point ... 

Good luck!
Steve B
San José, Kaleefohnia (USA)