[V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s
Coleman, David
David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Tue Apr 6 16:04:52 EDT 2004
Just a couple comments inserted:
> ...would note that there is a nut which is there to allow you to
> more easily
> compress the spring/damper on the serpentine belt tensioner.
> There are
> bolts that are accessed with the tensioner in the released
> state and others
> that require the tensioner to be pushed back and pinned.
As an identifier, I recall that this is an acorn-style nut.
> ... Given this fact I would recommend that you leave the radiator
> attached.
> Granted, the job is considerably easier with the core support
> out of the way
> ... but it is not required.
I R&R'd my TB (and cylinder heads and engine block) without removing the bumper or radiator. Yes, it'd have been easier if I had, but it's not necessary. Note -- if you want to use air to remove the crank bolt, it's all gotta come out. Otherwise you definitely need a friend with a modicum of understanding of physics.
> ... plate. I had a bit of fun getting the cam pulley to come loose on the
> driver's side bank.
Nice description on the cam plates. There's a couple pulley bolts that are extremely tight, and they're heart-stoppers when it comes to loosening them! You're not removing the heads, but the torquing requirement on them is insane. Same with the crank pulley (vibration damper?). You'll need a torque wrench multiplier or a powerful air gun. When you get that far in the reinstall, let us know...
> I don't know how much archive diving you've done, but you
> should carefully
> review the cam belt tensioning mechanism. I almost lost the
> engine in #344
> because the "friction piece" had worn completely through and
PN: "friction pad" 077 109 495
-DaveC.
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