[V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8

Korn, Bob Bob.Korn at Fike.com
Tue Apr 27 13:00:46 EDT 2004


Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you notice with the worn
motor mounts?  
My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder during initial
acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, was wondering if this
could be the mounts???


Bob
90 V8Q Pearl 136K


-----Original Message-----
From: cobram at juno.com [mailto:cobram at juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM
To: ron_01056 at yahoo.com
Cc: v8 at audifans.com; quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8


Ron Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com> writes:
 
>   A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his
> motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before
> I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT?
>  Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to
> the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way
> (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to
> open any more cans of worms than is allready open.

Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago:

From: Cobram at juno.com
To: v8q at u.washington.edu
 
 
Finally got around to changing the long ago purchased motor mounts on the
1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone wanting it: Remove the
bottom engine cover.  I suggest using a pair of bent vice grips to hold the
rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when you remove the 10mm nuts
holding the cover on. Remove the two side air intakes on top with the same
10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides of the engine headers.
(10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold your "Big Wheels" pedals
on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a 17mm universal socket (a
regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) with a THIN extension on
it over the top motor mount nut through the header pipe on the right side.
The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box end 17mm angle wrench.
(to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There isn't enough room to get
an extension through the headers on this
side.   To remove the bottom bolts on the motor mounts, loosen the 4 sub
frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the same 17mm universal on
the two bottom nuts.  LOTS of penetrating oil recommended, as these bolts
get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and bolts are off the motor
mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best place I've found for
lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack and lift with the top of
the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on.  For the right side,
placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket against the engine
worked well.  Lift enough to give you clearance to remove the old engine
mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, "installation is reverse
of removal."
 
One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom motor mounts bolts was
so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut that the bolt goes
through.  Needed an extra set of hands to hold the bolt while I turned the
nut from the top.  Replaced it, but this time I put the bolt in from the top
and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this again in ten years. 

BCNU,
http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
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