[V8] Shocking, utterly shocking!
Mike Arman
armanmik at earthlink.net
Sun Apr 3 11:46:50 EDT 2005
Completed the R&R front shocks on my V8Q yesterday.
Not a huge job, but I thought I'd provide a narrative for the next person
who needs or wants to do this.
Ordered a pair of shocks off eBay, they came from Fruit Ridge Tools in
Falconer NY. Price was $24.95 the PAIR, $11.75 shipping. These are Monroe
shocks (the car is a daily driver on good roads, and I have always liked
Monroe shocks), made in Argentina, I think. I've used them before in my 5K
(which Cody has now) and I've been happy with them.
Borrowed a 2069 tool and the top nut tool from Scott in MA, small rental
fee (worth EVERY penny), round trip postage was more.
Started on the driver's side, only because it was there.
Using a Sharpie marker, draw outline of top plate so it can be reinstalled
in same position, so no camber adjustment needed afterward. (Sly, Michael,
sly.)
Put a socket on the top nut, breaker bar on the socket, unscrew. Nut turns
but doesn't unscrew. Seems the shock rod and dish washer are turning too.
Scratch head. (Get grease on head.) Put large pipe wrench onto edges of
dished washer, use socket and breaker bar to loosen nut. Once loose, use
7mm Allen key to hold shaft while top nut is removed.
Remove three 17mm nylock nuts holding top late. Pop loose with a very
gentle nudge from a screwdriver, withdraw top plate.
Notice that the inner metal sleeve has been twisted free of the rubber
bushing. Use some choice profanity - now we know why these things are
called breaker bars - they break things. (Real sly, Michael, real sly. Phooey.)
Since Scott's tool has not arrived yet, decide to try making an ersatz 2069
from some pipe and a large nut. After consideration of the machining costs
involved, decide to go to plan B, which is making an ersatz 2069 tool from
a length of pipe and some blacksmithing so it will fit into the end of the
hex collar that retains the shock cartridge.
An hour or so of cussing and hammering later, the tool is ready - insert
over shock shaft, apply torque, and promptly skin knuckles when it collapses.
Come to senses, decide to wait for correct tool to arrive, and put car back
together so I can drive it in the meantime. Also, call Bruce at Audi
Connection and buy a new (used) shock top for $20.00. (After discovering
that a 5K shock top won't work - the metal part of the 5K top is stamped,
on the V8 it is forged.)
Fast forward to this weekend, and I now have the replacement shock top, the
tools, and good weather. Start again.
Go to passenger side this time. Put pipe wrench onto dished washer to keep
it from turning, loosen and remove nut, remove top plate.
Shock rod "clunks" to one side, making withdrawal of inner steel cap and
rubber bumper "difficult" - to say the least.
Insert tool, remove hex cap, withdraw shock unit - comes right out after it
is compressed a bit to clear the hood.
Start discussion on V8 list about how much oil goes into the housing
(answer is 30ccs - when all else fails, read the instructions), pour about
30cc of Castrol 20-50 (dino, not synth) into the hole (no MMO or STP
added), insert new shock cartridge, insert hex cap, insert tool, tighten
hex cap.
With much profanity, re-install rubber bumper, steel inner cap, top plate
(shock has to be compressed to start the 17mm nuts - and it is STIFF),
button everything up, put on plastic cover. Passenger side is done.
Wash hands, look at workbench - ummm, what's this? It's a spacer collar
that needs to go around the top of the replacement shock. Don't feel like
leaving it out, just remove hex cap, drop in the collar, replace hex cap.
Basically, do the job over from the start with the exception of pulling the
shock body out of the housing.
Say several unprintable words. Several times.
Remove shock top, inner cap, rubber bumper (which is getting a bit
tattered), insert tool, turn - and it pops out of the hex cap. Try again,
same result.
Problem is that the hex cap that comes with the Monroe shocks is soft, and
once tightened, there isn't much for the tool to grab when I want to remove it.
Dress edges of tool gently (remembering I don't own it) with file to
"sharpen" it up, try again, same result.
Get out floor jack to jack up car, and discover that the jack needs to be
rebuilt NOW - it won't hold pressure. Great, another project.
Get out $18 Harbor Freight floor jack (the one that's made of silly putty,
and the warranty clearly states if you use the product, the warranty is
void), jack up right front of car so I can get to the hex cap through the
coil spring - which is what I wanted to avoid all along.
Use a chain wrench to remove the hex cap. Drop spacer (centering collar)
down over the shock, tap into place (goes right in) and re-use the ORIGINAL
hex cap - the Monroe hex cap is burred - cheap, soft steel or something!
Replace rubber bumper, steel inner cap, shock top, 17mm nuts, align plate,
tighten nut while holding shock tube with 7mm Allen key, final torque the
nut with pipe wrench on dish washer - add plastic cap - now the passenger
side IS done.
Wash hands, take a short break, now we go back to the driver's side.
This one was almost anticlimactic. It was just like the manual said, remove
this, this, this, and this, add oil, replace this, this , this, and this.
Only difference was the old (damaged by yours truly) shock top is replaced
by the new (used) top from Bruce. Less than half an hour total, and no
cussing at all. All knuckles intact, car didn't even need to be jacked up.
Wash hands, pick up and discard trash, put tools away, wash hands again,
and test drive. Big smile - the old shocks weren't "bad" but there is a
noticeable difference in the ride - more controlled, less jiggly. All in
all, worth the hassle.
Lessons learned - have the right tools, don't take shortcuts, read the
instructions FIRST. Don't be afraid - it is fun and satisfying to work on
your own car, especially when the results are good.
Best Regards,
Mike Arman
86 5KS, 86 5KTQ, tons of parts, all down with Cody Forbes now in Delray
90 V8Q - it isn't just a car, it's an ADVENTURE!
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