[V8] cold start, idle speed, hydraulic fluid and speaker questions

Mon Feb 7 07:43:10 EST 2005

z1sales at z1auto.com wrote:
> Well, we are finally almost done with the V8 and just have a few more items to take care of before
> she is perfect (well, for a 15 year old car!).  Title will finally be in my hands tomorrow, so this
> maybe the week where she makes her maiden voyage in who-knows-how-many-years.
> 
> 1. cold start/cold idle - when we start the car after it has sat overnight for example, it will
> idle, though if you give it any gas while in reverse or drive, it will go, and then stall. 
> Restarts right away.  Once the car has warmed up a bit, it's fine.  Anything that jumps off the
> page as being the "goto part" to check/clean/replace?  Also, what is the idle speed supposed to be
> when the car is cold vs when its warmed?   It's had a tune up done since I got it (new caps,
> rotors, plugs, wires looked ok so left them)
> 

You can start with pulling the ISV and giving it a good cleaning...  check those 
wires with a multimeter, or better yet just replace them. not cheap...

> 2. hydraulic fluid - I have a case of the Pentosin 11s at the shop, so since every other fluid in
> the car has now been swapped for fresh stuff, figured mind as well tackle the hydraulic fluid too. 
> Is there a write up as to the proper way to flush/fill?  

never even thought about that :)

> 
> 3. My car has an aftermarket headunit and the stock Bose speakers...only the passenger side Bose
> works, and from all i have read, it's just as well!  Is there anything special required to replace
> the front and rear door/deck speakers?  I'm not going for high end sound at all....more along the
> lines of (fingers crossed) dropping it off at Ciruit City for an afternoon and having them swapped?
>  Anything special I should know?
> 

ahhh,  The bose wires are real thin, because each speaker has it's own amp... 
I'll attach a write-up I did about replacing the speaker wiring, not hard, just 
a bit time consuming...

> 4. Anyone have a spare center cap they want to get rid of (non BBS)
>

sorry, not in my pile o parts in the garage...

> thanks guys...appreciate the assistance as usual!
> 
> 
> Adam
> Z1 Performance
> www.z1auto.com
> 631-863-3820
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
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-- 

     _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/     _/      Mike LaRosa
    _/      _/    _/  _/_/   _/       TSE - HAS
   _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/  _/ _/        1617 Southwood Drive
      _/  _/    _/  _/   _/_/         Nashua, NH 03063
_/_/_/   _/_/_/   _/     _/
   S U N                              Phone: 781/442-1250
   S E R V I C E S                    Fax: 781/442-5488
                                      Email:mc.larosa at sun.com
-------------- next part --------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 09:54:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Larosa <mlarosa at winston500.east>
Subject: Re: Radios, details of swapping out the Bose.
To: v8 at audifans.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-MD5: QkbeEuWjYIrtRIZy2DDlaA==

>From a post I sent on Decmeber 18... :-)

Bose:

I just gave up on my Bose yesterday.  Front driver side speaker making a
loud burbling noise, no music....  I put in my old Alpine am/fm/cassette
with 100 watts.  I ran I think it's 12 guage flat monster cable to all
4 speakers(Radio Shack 50 feet). Works pretty good :-)  lot of labor, but 
it cost me a total of probably $25.- in speaker wire and connectors :-)  
I'll do a large "How To" write up and post later.  It's probably a 4-6
hour project.....

Okay so I didn't do the write up...  busy at work....  :-(

Jan 2, 2002 update.....

A little more detail:

Parts:

- Alpine am/fm/cassette,  was $425.- new about 5 years ago.

- 50 Feet of flat monster cable from Radio Shack,  $20.-

- not sure what you call these, but one is a flat rectangular, this
  would be the male side, and the female counterpart...  Let's
  see, needed 20 of these.

  	4 for each speaker wire pair. 

  	2 for the power and ground.

- Wire stripper 	
- Multimeter
- Small Phillips screw driver
- allen wrench to remove door panels
- deep socket to remove rear speaker covers in trunk
- small size metric sockets, although I used english..
  (The Not Soon Enough To Be Ex Wife still has my tool box.... Don't ask)
- black electrical tape of course :-)

- a thick metal hanger, unless you allready have the stereo removal
  u shaped tools....

How to do it:

- Do you know the security code to your radio ?  if not, think hard
  about yanking it,  you'll have to go to the dealer to get the code
  if you ever want to re-install it....

- I started with the fronts.

	Pull up both carpets in front, both side panels on the center
	console, the plastic panel cover for the relays, the panel 
	covering the fuses.

	You'll have to unscrew the bracket for the hood pull on the
	driver side panel,  then the nut on the bottom of that panel
	near the brake pedal. Remove the panel.

	Remove the knee panel below the steering wheel.

	Now take off the door panels,  this is where ya need that allen
	wrench and small phillips.  The procedure is in the archives...

	Once the panel is off, you can see the bose plastic boxes.

	Take the whole box off, then unscrew the cover, yes there 
	are lots of screws :-)

	The speakers terminals are labled + and -  pull those 
	connections.

	Cut and crimp some lugs on the monster cable and attach.

	DON'T CUT THE WIRE OFF THE SPOOL YET.

	I used flat cable 'cause it followed the other wires nicely
	and fit under the strain relief :-)

	Fit the box to the door loosely....

	The Fun Part:

	You get to test snake that wire to get an idea of how long
	it needs to be.

	I snaked through the door along the bottom inside, through
	the door boot, then it went just below the steering wheel
	and into the center console area,  Give yourself an extra foot
	of wire.  It would really suck to have it to short.....

	Cut it, and start the actual snaking.....  

	Repeat for the other door panel.

- Okay know for the rear speakers:

	Pull out the bottom back seat and those plastic moldings
	that cover the door sill.

	Head for the trunk with your deep socket set.

	Remove both speakers.

	NOTE:  Be carefull the magnet of the speaker doesn't yank the
	socket into the plastic housing.... Don't ask why I posted
	this note.... okay I'll tell ya...  The socket wasn't attached
	tight enough to the wrench... apparently... and when I put the
	screwdriver with the socket on the nut,  it got pulled clean off
	the socket and it got stuck inside.  I spent about 10 minutes 
	trying to get out with no luck.  I grabbed a beer and pondered, 
	then I simply broke a few plastic pieces off the side of the 
	plastic cover and pulled it out.... not pretty... :-(

	Allrighty, same drill as the front speakers,  disconnect the 
	circular connector, then pull off the 2 wires to the speaker
	terminals, I don't remember if these are labled, but the smaller
	terminal is positive.  This is how the fronts are.

	Connect the monster cable to the speakers,  test snake it with the 
	other wire in the plastic housing.

	run the cable out over the side of the car into the back seat and
	follow the door sill to the front,  follow the same path as the front
	cables at this point.  again give yourself an extra foot and cut it.

	Okay, now pull the black felt away on the rear fender, right where 
	the speaker bolts up, you should see a hole to route the wire through.

	Push through a couple of feet, now pull the vertical part of the
	rear seat forward a little from the side, hopefully you can see the 
	wire.  Pull it through, carefull not to pull to hard and pull the 
	speaker itself into the rear bulkhead :-)

	I pushed that flat cable into the door sill channel so that it
	just fit underneath those silver clips, than ran it at a 90 on the
	front door sill,  follow the front door wire.....

	You get to figure out which wires on your deck are for your
	speakers :-)

- Removing the radio.

	Cut up the hanger into to 2 pieces approx 8" long, bend it into
	a U shape.  The tops of the U need to match the 2 vertical holes
	on either side of your radio. 

	Push them into the holes, then put pressure on them towards
	the doors.  Pull.....

	Disconnect the connectors....

- This is what I did for power.....

	I got out the multimeter and probed I believe a yellow wire
	on the connector that comes out of the back of the bose. It is a 
	constant power.  You can choose a wire that's only on with the
	key on,  but my deck has a clock, so I wanted constant power.

	I didn't want to permently cut any of the original wires, so	
	I trimmed about a half inch of plastic from the wire, then 
	twisted the half inch of that exposed copper like a twist tie,
	put a spade on there and crimped it.  

	Did this for the ground wire as well.

Luckily my deck fits perfectly in the hole, with just a little bit
of tension.

Know you get to power it up and see if everything works, put all the panels
and such back together.

Good Luck!

    _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/     _/      Mike LaRosa
   _/      _/    _/  _/_/   _/       TSE - HAS
  _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/  _/ _/        1 Network Drive
     _/  _/    _/  _/   _/_/         Burlington, MA 01803
_/_/_/   _/_/_/   _/     _/          			 				     		 
E N T E R P R I S E		     Phone:	781/442-1250
  S E R V I C E S		     Fax:       781/442-1418
				     Email:	mlarosa at east.sun.com