[V8] Broken Wheel Bolts
Buchholz, Steven
Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com
Thu Jan 27 20:54:07 EST 2005
WOW! No, not I. I wonder if it isn't caused in part by extreme thermal
cycles. The wheels were hubcentric, correct? If not there could have
been a shear component created by driving the car around too.
I've got a set of the Alden extractors (which I see are now available
through Sears) ... they should do the trick. I'd recommend providing a
good starting reference by starting a small standard bit in the part you
are removing. IME, the extractor does not need to be centered on the
center line of the bolt you are removing, but it does need to be as
parallel to the axis of the bolt as possible. I'd also recommend that
you use an extractor that was as large as you can fit ... but be careful
not to damage the threads in the hub. Have you tried removing the
remnant at all yet? Since these are not likely to be rusted over
threads you may find extraction will not need extreme measures ... and
of course the Kroil will help there too ...
Steve B
San Jose, CA (USA)
>
> Anybody faced this before:
> http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/39122017 Those
> holes you can't
> see through have broken-off ends of wheel bolts in them.
> The broken bolts
> are at http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/39121870
>
> I was wondering why I was hearing a strange noise.
>
> The Bolts were tightened by hand and torqued with a torque wrench, a
> process I've done many, many times. I checked bolt
> tightness again after
> about 100 miles of driving. Nothing was loose.
>
> Any guesses as to why the bolts broke?
>
> Any suggestions for removing the broken off stuff? Since
> taking the pix I
> have bathed them in Kroil. I have a set of those reverse
> drill bits with
> extractors. Do I need to be accurate in centering one of the
> bits? The
> exposed surfaces are uneven. Should I use the largest size I have?
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