[V8] Tools for A/C work

Fri Jul 8 21:19:16 EDT 2005

Sorry for the long delay in replying. I've been soaking up rays on vacation.

The 90 degree fitting I purchased was a R-134a adaptor that screws onto the
OEM R-12 fitting.  The "standard" straight throught fittings have a core
that extends through to the R-12 fitting, so as to depress the R-12 schrader
valve core when the quick connect coupling is attached allowing the system
to charge.  The 90 degree fitting can't do this, so you have to remove the
R-12 valve core (which completely discharges the system) before attaching
the 90 degree adaptor.

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: Kneale Brownson [mailto:kneale at coslink.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 5:20 PM
To: CB&D, LLC
Subject: RE: [V8] Tools for A/C work

Does the 90 degree fitting go over the R-134a thing that attaches to the
OEM R-12 fitting, or does the 90-degree go onto what's there already?

Thanks, Kneale

At 02:27 PM 6/29/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I was in Advance Auto Parts today and they have everything you need.  ester
>oil in the 2oz + 3oz freon small can or 12oz freon cans with oil.  They had
>a kit with everything you need: three cans freon, oil, charge hoses and
>fittings for $38.00.  You will still need the 90 degree fitting to get the
>quick connect R-134a charge hose to clear the suction accumulator.
>
>Jeff
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kneale Brownson [mailto:kneale at coslink.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 8:23 AM
>To: Jeff Goldberg
>Subject: RE: [V8] Tools for A/C work
>
>
>Where did you get the Interdynamics kit?
>
>Regards, Kneale
>
>At 08:01 AM 6/29/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>I recharged my system and added the aerosol ester oil charge.  97 F here
in
>>VA yesterday, A/C set to 68 F and auto fan speed dropped to low :)  Then I
>>hear from the back seat: "Dad, its cold in here!"
>>
>>The only change I made was to remove the low side shrader valve insert and
>>install a 90 degree R-134a fitting to get the larger R-134a recharge hose
>>on.
>>
>>I converted a 1986 Ford Bronco the same way 4 years ago with no problems.
>>
>>Snip from a FAQ:
>>
>>How do you actually do the retrofit with the Interdynamics kit?
>>
>>There are 5 steps: 1. EVACUATE the R-12, if there is any left in the
>system.
>>This must be done without venting (releasing the gas into the atmosphere)
>by
>>a certified mechanic using approved R-12 Recovery equipment. Many
>installers
>>will do this without charge, because the R-12 they recover from your
system
>>is valuable.
>>2. Install the ADAPTERS onto the Service Ports (High Side & Low Side).
>>3 & 4. Add 1 can of R-134a refrigerant first, so the compressor is not
>>running dry.
>>Add the ESTER OIL that is included with the kit. Then add the remaining
>>R-134a REFRIGERANT, to a total of 80-85% of the original R-12 capacity.
>>5. Fill out and affix the LABEL to the engine.
>>
>>Why does Interdynamics use Ester Oil instead of PAG Oil?
>>
>>While both lubricants are used with R-134a, Ester is believed to be better
>>for Retrofit systems because they are much less hygroscopic, which means
>>that they don't absorb as much water from the atmosphere as PAG Oils do.
>>This moisture can create problems in a vehicle's A/C system. Ester is also
>a
>>truly Universal lubricant which has a Single Viscosity. PAG Oils come in a
>>variety of viscosities which must be matched to the vehicle. GM vehicles
>use
>>a high viscosity (150) PAG Oil, and non-GM vehicles use a low viscosity
>(46)
>>PAG Oil. You cannot use a 100 viscosity PAG Oil as a "1 size fits all"
>>universal lubricant. Ester Oil, however, is truly universal and will
>>lubricate properly regardless of viscosity.
>>
>>What about the old oil left in the system? Don't you have to drain that?
>>
>>
>>No. The mineral oil left behind will not mix with the R-134a refrigerant.
>>That is why we add Ester Oil, because it will mix with R-134a and
lubricate
>>the system components. The mineral oil just finds a low place in the
>system,
>>where it stays, until it is removed at some later date during future
>>maintenance or repair. The mineral oil does no good, but it does no harm.
>>It's just there.
>>How much R-134a do you use to fill a system?
>>
>>
>>You fill a system with 80-85% of the original R-12 Volume. Since there are
>3
>>oz. of R-134a used as a propellant in the Oil provided in the kit, three
12
>>oz. cans of R-134a should be sufficient. The amount of R-12 Refrigerant in
>>the system can be found in the service manual or on a service plate
located
>>in the engine compartment of the vehicle.
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: v8-bounces+jgoldberg=ntelos.net at audifans.com
>>[mailto:v8-bounces+jgoldberg=ntelos.net at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Scott
>>DeWitt
>>Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 4:17 PM
>>To: V8 at audifans.com
>>Subject: Re: [V8] Tools for A/C work
>>
>>
>>I would avoid any R12 alternatives as many aren't fully tested, aren't
>>goverment approved, and difficult to come by locally. Many are blends of
>>refrigerants, which tend to seep out of the system at different rates. A
>>R134A conversion can be as simple as replacing the oil with R134A oil, and
>>change the drier. Type 44 driers can be had for 25 bucks.
>>
>>Scott
>>
>>>
>>> Local pricing on R-12 refills is about $250.  R-134A conversions run in
>>> that same price range.  I'd like to try the alternative R-12 stuff like
>>> enviro-safe-12   ( http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm ).  I presume
>I
>>> need a vacuum pump to get rid of moisture.  I have plenty of air
>>> compressor
>>> capability and was looking at the cheap air/vacuum pumps.  And I presume
>I
>>> need a gauge set too.   Do I need anything else to do this job right?
>>> My
>>> 200q20v needs recharging, I believe.  I think I need the gauges to check
>>> that the R12 has disappeared???    My two V8s also have old R12 systems.
>>> They work well now, but so has the 200 in the past.
>>
>>
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