[V8] Engine miss and no power

[Buchholz, Steven]

Funny, I was thinking that you were talking about the "TPS" ... Throttle
Position Switch/Sensor ... it certainly can be problematic and cause
performance issues.  I wonder if the idle switch were always closed if
the ECU wouldn't let the RPMs get above some threshold like 1000 RPM.  

No, you need to physically swap the sensors on the mounting plate ...
remember to plug them in to the appropriate connector in the loom based
on their position (i.e. the grey plug into the black socket and vice
versa).

Steve B
San Jose, CA (USA)
> 
> That was my typo should read: CTP: closed throttle position sensor.
> 
> Can I just swap the connectors for the sensors or do I need do
physically
> relocate them as well?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> The engine will not run at all without the RPM sensor ... perhaps it
is
> intermittent ... but I think you'd have more trouble getting it
running.
> Rather than replace you may want to test by swapping the RPM and
Reference
> sensors to see if that fixes things ... if it now runs you have good
> evidence that the RPM sensor has a problem.
> 
> For some reason my brain isn't recognizing "CPT" this early in the
morning
> ...
> 
> The mixture adaptation code makes me wonder if you should not
investigate
> the Fuel Pressure Regulator ... since there's no OXS code too ...
> 
> AFAIK the codes are reset after reading if you use blink mode ...
> 
> Steve B
> San Jose, CA (USA)
> 
> 
> > Car started right up this morning and idled fine, but could not coax
> > throttle over 1000 RPM...begins to rev and then seems like it cuts
off at
> > 1000 and idle drops.  I rechecked the codes with it idling and found
3
> > codes.
> >
> > 2413 Mixture Adaption (an ABH code ???)
> > 2111 RPM Sensor no change in signal
> > 2121 CPT Switch signal to positive
> >
> > I ran the output test to clear the codes and all three codes
reappear.
> > The
> > CPT tested Ok.  The RPM sensor tests call for terminals 1 and 3, 2
and 3
> > to
> > read open.  I read 2-3 ohms across these terminals.  I also found
oil in
> > the
> > RPM sensor connector which I cleaned out.
> >
> > After testing the sensors and plugging back in the car ran perfect
for
> > about
> > 1/2 a mile then the symptoms returned. The car starts and idles
perfect
> > until the temp. gauge hits the first mark, then it won't idle
either.
> >
> > The fact that the symtoms completely went away and returned so
suddenly
> > leads me to think it's not as simple as fouled plugs.
> > When it's cold it starts and idles fine. When it's missing it
doesn't have
> > the power to even move in the drive.  Once it's warm it still starts
but
> > misses at idle as well.
> >
> > What is the best way to clear the codes?  Is there a way to know for
sure
> > that they have been cleared?
> > Do you think I should go ahead and replace the RPM sensor?