[V8] Rear main seal leaking? Uh oh.....

Fri Mar 25 10:31:15 EST 2005

7 foot pounds is typical for that size bolt. Consistancy is the key to
preventing leaks and that is why the torque wrench is handy.

Dave

Quoting William Gutierrez <lundabo at msn.com>:

> Any advice on the torque settings for the oil pan and sump bolts?  I think I
> have similar drips and I would like to tighten them up while I have the pan
> off the car.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
>
> >From: dsaad at icehouse.net
> >To: v8 at audifans.com
> >Subject: Re: [V8] Rear main seal leaking?  Uh oh.....
> >Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:22:28 -0700
> >
> >Wise counsel Dave san...
> >
> >Before I went and yanked out a motor, I would re-torque (using a real
> >torque
> >wrench) all of the oil pan and sump bolts. To do this you are going to have
> >to
> >remove the lower pan and possibly lower the sub frame. There are
> >approximately 6
> >zillion bolts and you will have to buy a lower pan gasket.
> >There is a junction point where the rear main seal cover, engine block, and
> >upper sump all come together. This is a great place for a leak - and will
> >look
> >like the rear main. (BTDT) As I recall, there are two hidden bolts in there
> >somewhere that need to be tight.
> >
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >Quoting Dave Head <v8q at bellsouth.net>:
> >
> > > Before doing that, remove the reference sensors on check for oil. My
> > > hanger queen had a leak like that - but it was the upper sump gasket
> > > (the cast piece above the oil pan) instead of the crank seal. It its the
> > > rear main, it will sling oil. If its the sump gasket, it will just leak.
> > >
> > > Carter Johnson wrote:
> > >
> > > >That is correct - one or the other.  Sorry if I didn't
> > > >make that clear.  Obviously, though, with everything
> > > >apart, it makes sense to service the tranny.  It is
> > > >*likely* the rear main - we replaced all the breather
> > > >hoses in the hope that the leak was there when I did
> > > >the timing belt.  When you're under the car, if you
> > > >peer into the two holes at the bottom of the bell
> > > >housing, you can see oil accumulating on the inards.
> > > >Also, a close inspection after a hard run in and 30
> > > >minutes running showed no leaks from up high, though
> > > >the right bank is noiser (cam chain slack????) and the
> > > >right bank distributer is a touch weepy.
> > > >
> > > >Carter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >--- Jeremy Ward <jward at mti-interactive.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>I was getting leaking on the exhaust X and it was
> > > >>coming from the rear
> > > >>crank case breather hose, the head to head breather
> > > >>hose, and possibly
> > > >>the vacuum hose that goes up and over the air intake
> > > >>at the back of the
> > > >>engine (well, it was covered in oil and
> > > >>deteriorated, possible from the
> > > >>other oil leak).
> > > >>
> > > >>If it *is* the RMS, you should be seeing oil leaking
> > > >>from the bottom of
> > > >>the bell housing...  I think it has been said there
> > > >>are holes you can
> > > >>peek in and see oil if you have an RMS issue.
> > > >>
> > > >>Original recommendation was 10qts of oil, which was
> > > >>dropped down to 8.25
> > > >>qts.  Those who run 10 qts experience oil
> > > >>consumption and it puts extra
> > > >>pressure on the seals (including the RMS), whereas
> > > >>those running 2 qts
> > > >>less don't see much oil consumption...
> > > >>
> > > >>I replaced the RMS when I had the transmission out
> > > >>for repair.  The
> > > >>transmission shop didn't want to do it, told me if
> > > >>it's not leaking,
> > > >>don't touch it.  BS.  If you pay 11hrs x shop rate
> > > >>to have the
> > > >>transmission removed and reinstalled, there is no
> > > >>better time to do the
> > > >>RMS.  IIRC it was $150 for the plate with seal
> > > >>already pressed in.  Some
> > > >>on the list say you can get just the seal for much
> > > >>less and press it in
> > > >>your self, but in my opinion the extra money was
> > > >>good insurance to
> > > >>reduce the risk of future leaks from messing with it
> > > >>in the first place.
> > > >>
> > > >>To clarify what you said Carter, to get to the RMS,
> > > >>you have to either
> > > >>pull the tranny (11 hr R&R) OR the motor (10 hr
> > > >>R&R).  You don't have to
> > > >>do both...
> > > >>
> > > >>Good luck man, and let me know if you need the P/N
> > > >>for the RMS (I have
> > > >>it somewhere...)
> > > >>
> > > >>Cheers,
> > > >>
> > > >>- Jeremy
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >W. Carter Johnson
> > > >University of Rhode Island
> > > >401-874-4947 office
> > > >401-789-3217 home
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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