[V8] molding
Jeremy Ward
jward.v8 at gmail.com
Sun Dec 31 13:05:30 EST 2006
Piece o' cake. Open the door, and there is a black cap on a 10mm (?) bolt
head at each end of this molding (on the doorjamb side, obviously); pop the
cap off with a small flat blade screw driver and remove the 2 bolts.
Now carefully pry the molding off the door. Getting it started is the most
difficult part, but if yours has already started on the bottom side, I am
guessing it will be easy. Never pry against the paint that will be visible
(you don't want to leave a scratch or a dent). You may also be able to push
a big Philips through where you took the bolt out to help you pry this off.
Now that it is off, the not-so-fun part begins: there is buettle (sp?)
residue on the molding and on the car that you must remove. You can heat it
up a little (not too much) with a hair dryer and use a ball of it to help
pull more off of the car. I ended up using the corner of a putty knife to
scrape the buettle out of the groove on the back of the molding. (set a
towel down on your workbench to keep from scratching up the front side of
your molding.
Next, play some ACDC (Back in Black) and apply your blackening mojo. You
should be able to find a roll of 1/4" buettle at a paint supply store that
caters to body shops. This is the stuff they used to use to hold in
windshields before they started gluing them in to add to become part of the
structure of cars. It is also used to put in aftermarket sunroofs and
windows (when converting a bare panel-van into a 'custom').
Lay a bead of this around the groove in the back of the molding; if it hangs
over one way or another, make sure it is towards the inside of the part to
prevent squeeze-out onto your car's paint. If this happens, or worries;
take a putty knife and use a file to round once corner over at a 1/4"
radius. You can also make this new edge a little thinner by filing the flat
part of the corner. You can use the molding as a guide on the flat of your
new radius'd knife; press hard enough to cut through the buettle but not
gouge the paint. Don't worry, it is easier than it sounds.
It's probably a good time to wash and wax this area that never sees the
light of day before you reinstall the molding. ;-)
Good luck and let me know if you have any Q's.
Cheers,
- Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of
tlastre01 at sprintpcs.com
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 8:48 AM
To: V8 at audifans.com
Subject: [V8] molding
First of all let me say that I'm sorry I couldn't meet with the Audi nuts
over at Keith's (Happy Holidays Everybody). It would have been great to put
faces on all the listers that correspond on the forum. Now, to my situation.
I am washing my pearl v8 and I'm putting on this Back-to-black stuff on my
moldings that makes them look real good. I notice that my door molding is
coming loose on the bottom, you can't see it from the top. Is this moding
glued on (it looks like it is) or are there any fasteners (I hope so) that I
need to replace. If so, how? Is this something that needs a body shop, or
the stealership?
Thank you very much
Tomas (1990 V8 pearl)
--------------------
Sprint PCS Mail
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