[V8] TB tools and Oil Leak(s)

[dsaad at icehouse.net]

It looks like the cam lock prices have gone up - seems like I paid about $80
from Ziemant(wrong spelling - but it sounds like that).

I got the crank align tool and did not need it. You might instead get the crank
gear puller in case you want to change the crank seal. The vibration damper
timing mark worked fine for me, the tool just holds things in place for ease.

I would also not get the torque thingy. I made one for cheap that IMHO is
actually better as it is a universal tool that turns my 150LB torque wrench into
a 450LB wrench (3X). Cost me under $30. Basically you just weld an old impact
socket onto a cheater pipe, then use a breaker bar and socket. I will give you
more detail and a picture if you want to go this route.

I chose to just buy the tools because I knew I was keeping the car for a while
and I figured they would pay for themselves. They did that when my new water
pump failed not long after I did the t-belt job.

You also need something to get the fan off. As luck would have it, I just made
my 3rd generation tool for this just last night. (I am replacing my serpintine
belt and the two idlers)
Again, I can send a picture and details. It is cheap and easy and (this time :-)
 strong. You need a 32mm open end wrench that is thin as possible at the head
too.

Dave

Quoting Jeff Goldberg <gold123 at ntelos.net>:

> One of my leaks appears to be coming from behind the rear half of
> the right timing chain cover and running down onto the alternator.
> My guess is front engine cover gasket.  I remember posts regarding
> this cover and if memory serves me correctly I'll also need to do
> the upper and lower pan gaskets.

There is a rubber "D" plug at the front of the valve cover. If this leaks, it
goes right down over the alternator. You probably need to replace the valve
cover gaskets anyway - may as well give it a try before you tear off the front
of the motor - although you may have other reasons to do this.

> I also have leaks at both sides of the engine at the rear.  I have
> installed distributor o-rings, but that's it back there.
>
> My last leak is pentosin and appears to be coming from the pump.  I
> thought I would get it cleaned up and the front of the car off and
> have a better look at this.  The brake pedal is getting harder to
> push and I wonder if I am loosing fluid/pressure from the brake side
> of the pump.

Seems like the hoses all start to leak at some point. I had to have the pump
rebuilt a few years ago, and more recently had the hoses rebuilt. I went with
the Chevron RYKON 32 and have had no problems with leaks or anything - and it
had been a good 2 years so far. I also installed a filter in the rack return
line in the hopes it will save my rack. So far so good.
I would give Rick at www.importpartsspec (1-800-897-7278) and see what he can
do. He used to rebuild these pumps as a business and knows them inside out. The
caveat is that he ran out of the bearings (I got the last set I think) and has
to buy a big quantity so he just quit doing the rebuilds. Demand was going down
anyway and he did not want a hundred pump bearings sitting on the shelf. If he
can not rebuild yours he can at least get you another.


>
> I have been on the fence on keeping this car and I guess I want to
> keep it and have decided that I need to make it stop smoking.
>
> I think I will go ahead and make the purchase as I hope to own an
> Audi with a V8 for a long time.  If I move to newer cars I'll only
> need new cam plates.  Tool list I have is:
>
> 3197    crank holder  137.50
> 3199    cam locking   137.50
> 3211    crank align    77.84
> 2079    torque lever  127.90
> 2587    pin wrench     20.90
>
> About $500 for the set.
>
>
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