[V8] rack install notes

[Coleman, David]

Oh, and great write-up by the way.  Definitely one for my own personal
email archive.
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com 
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of dsaad at icehouse.net
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 11:58 AM
> To: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: [V8] rack install notes
> 
> 
> 
> I finished putting in my rack last night, and came up with a 
> few tips to help the next guy.
> First off, I just replaced the boot so some of this may not 
> apply if you are doing a swap out.
> 
> First, the removal: (this is on a 1991 5-speed) I removed 
> both distributors and coils, the plug wire tray, both fuel 
> lines, the rubber boot thingy on the right side tie rod 
> opening, both front wheels.
> If you had a reason to remove the coolant pipe at the back of 
> the motor (like to replace the o-rings) this would help too.
> You do not need to mess with transmission bolts on the 5-speed.
> The manual also says to loosen the Procon bracket - but I did 
> not have to. Maybe this is only on the automatics?
> 
> The trick:
> after all the above stuff is removed, it is time to remove 
> the rack and damper.
> Remove the steering column coupler.
> Remove the right side rack bolt.
> Next remove the left side bolts that mount the rack to the 
> fender wall.
> After you remove the bolts, go into the left wheel well and 
> re-install the bolts in the threaded holes they just came out of.
> This makes it so the rack can not twist, but you can swing 
> the right end toward the motor.
> With the rack in this position, you can use a ratchet with a 
> long extension and 19mm socket to remove the oil lines. The 
> extensions are long enough to put the ratchet near the right 
> end of the rack. With the fuel lines off you can easily crack 
> loose the banjo bolts. Cover up the banjos, push them up out 
> of the way, remove the servotronic connection, and back out 
> the two bolts in the left fender well.
> Now work the rack out through the right tie rod opening.
> I found that the wheel/tie rod had to be fully in (hard right 
> turn) for the rack to fit out. It looks imposible but it does 
> fit. You need a big assortment of swear words. You also have 
> to re-position the tie rod a few times.
> 
> To replace the boot, you need to take off some oil lines. Be 
> sure to have all the new o-rings handy.
> Also, be sure to put the tie-rod bracket on - making sure it 
> is properly sealed in the boot holes, before you put the rack 
> in the car.
> 
> 
> I think that pretty much covers it. My only hitches were I 
> forgot the tie rod bracket so I had to remove the rack again, 
> and even though I was ever so careful, I forgot to put the 
> rack return line back on at the tank. For those interested, 
> it takes about 30 seconds for the pump to empty the oil tank 
> onto the garage floor at idle speed.
> 
> Dave
> 
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