[V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited

Scott Phillips Scottp at ippe.com
Fri Nov 10 13:45:41 EST 2006


Paul, 

In all serious I guessed and the exact ones I ordered 2 SB7100 (M7 x
1.0) for the front and 2 SB1010s (M10 x 1.0) for the rear... but my
guess was sort of educated..

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1009426,parttype,1676,partGrou
p,14 I went on one of the FLAPS on-line stores sites that listed a
doorman number for the bleeders (see link) they say that they are both
M10 x 1.0..but I don't believe them so I ordered what looked like the
other most popular size. As I still have the UFO's on my car and not
many people actually list that stuff correctly anyway., If it turns out,
it do need the 2nd set of M10 ones, I'll toss the M7 in my tool box for
looks..

Kneale asked the same question so I thought I'd reply to the "list" to
save a bunch of PM's and this way it gets archived too..

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: Intemann, Paul (GE Infra, Aviation, US)
[mailto:paul.intemann at ge.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 1:33 PM
To: Scott Phillips
Subject: RE: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited

Hey Scott,

since "Audi" doesn't seem to be listed in their "application line-up"
what size did you use/order?  TIA.

Paul
Cincinnati, Ohio

'90 V8q 3.6 auto
'91 V8q 3.6 5-speed
'94 V8q 4.2 auto

-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf
Of Scott Phillips
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 1:05 PM
To: v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited


There is another way that is IMHO far easier and will save you tons of
time from now on... I got the name from the BIRA site.. (www.BIRA.org)

http://www.speedbleeder.com/  These guys figured out how to make a
bleeder screw with a check valve inside it, so that you can 
crack the bleeder open stick on a piece of hose into a can and pump the
pedal (make sure you don't run out of fluid)
The pressure from the MC will open the check forcing the fluid out,
closing (via a spring) when the pressure (pedal up-stroke) goes away
So you can easily change fluid (Bentley says pump out 500CC per wheel if
I recall) or bleed them on your own. And there's no need for a 
Pressure bleeder. And the next time ;-)... well you get the idea.

Further adding to what Dave said, in that if the MC is in bad shape,
this is adding no 'additional" work to it 
(other than its original design)..

I can't say for sure how they work (I only found them yesterday and
ordered a set).. 

This is just my $0.02.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
Of dsaad at icehouse.net
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 12:27 PM
To: v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited

Even cheaper - and probably the best and cleanest way too - is just a
simple and
cheap catch bottle you hook up to the bleeder valve. You just pump the
fluid
through with the pedal - so no pressure or vacuum needed.
I have tried all three ways on various cars, and to me the simplest and
fastest
is this way. You can either buy a simple system that has nice adaptor
plugs, or
just get a length of clear tubing you can force over the bleeder nipple,
and a
glass jar. The only trick is to keep the jar end of the tube below the
fluid
level so you don't pull air back up into the wheel cylinder.

The only problem you might have is if the master cylinder is in bad
shape - as
in corroded and near failure anyway. When you pump the fluid through,
the pedal
will bottom out and if the normally un-used part of the cylinder bore is
rough
or corroded then you can tear up the seals. The fact is though that your
master
cylinder is near failure anyway and this will just help you decide to
fix it
sooner rather than later.
On the brighter side, if you always do it this way, the cylinder bore
will get
cleaned out periodically and perhaps last longer.
I will also add that I have never had a master cylinder fail this way -
even my
83 ranger that had never had any regular fluid service done to it.


This is also the way most brake shops I have seen do it because it
requires no
special tools and works on any car.


Dave


Quoting Jeremy Ward <jward.v8 at gmail.com>:

> Another option is to pull the brake fluid from the valve at each
wheel.  I
> bought a cheap (~$40) tool at the FLAPS that has a vacuum gage and a
fluid
> reservoir for pulling (and removing) fluids.  I used it to bleed the
brakes
> and it worked well.  Don't forget to refill the reservoir on the
master
> cylinder though ;-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> - Jeremy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of
> Etdmail at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 6:52 AM
> To: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited
>
>
>  Hi All
>
>  An old post, I thought I'd resend for an easy bleeder ..
>
>  In the event, the ABS-Pump or gravity won't bleed the system.
>
>  In the past - I've used a 'spare' brake master-cylinder cap
>  with the correct-sized hole cut, in it's center, to accept a
>  tire/rim's valve-stem .. And then used a 'bicycle-pump' to
>  supply pressurization to the master and lines.
>
>  With the lower pressure levels there should be little worry
>  about brake fluild landing on costly to repair paint surfaces.
>
>  Also have found the (Valvoline) Synthetic brake fluids available
>  in AutoZones, etc. .. Gives good service and leaves a slightly
>  harder brake-pedal, hot or cold.
>
>  HTH
>  Best,
>  Ed
>
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