[V8] Strut Mount Replacement

[Carol, Dave, and Zach Weiss]

>>
Going to replace the strut mounts, bump stops and strut boots this  
weekend in the '92V8Q.  Can anyone give some quick advice on this as  
this will be the first time I've replaced them.  I've been as far in  
an engine as to replace the timing belt in my '95 90CSQ, but this  
will be the first time dealing with the suspension.  Is it as simple  
as getting the car on the jack stands, removing the wheels and  
unscrewing from the engine compartment?  Any help would be appreciated.

<<

 

All that stuff goes on from the top.

 

You might want to jack the car if you have high-pressure shocks and you have
a hard time compressing it to get the camber plate (strut mount) on.  In
that case just slightly lift the corner you're working on, and the camber
plate will fit easily.  If, before you take it apart, you make a template
over the shock and the studs that hold the strut to the shock tower, you
might be able to reset the camber pretty close to where it was, but an
alignment is probably worthwhile.

 

Don't turn the shock shaft-bad for the seals.  There's a place for an Allen
wrench in the center of the shaft.  To torque the shock bolt you'll either
need a crowfoot or a modified deep socket for the torque wrench.  The socket
is easy to make-just use a Dremel and grinder to take half the center out of
a 22 mm deep socket, so you can hold the shaft from turning with the Allen
while you torque the nut.  Here's a commercial one (click on VAG 3078 from
this link): http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/useful_tools.htm

 

The rubber boot can be dropped in from the top, but to get it over the lip
on the "spring retainer" you'll need that corner of the car supported and
the suspension in full rebound, and probably remove the wheel.  It can be
fiddly that way, but it's not worth the time to take the strut completely
off and disassemble it (need spring compressors, too) unless you're
replacing strut bearings.  Breaking loose the lower control arm from the
wheel bearing housing is often a pain in the backside, and you don't want to
cold-work the spindle by using a chisel to spread the joint.

 

Dave