[V8] FP Removal

[Ed Kellock]

Do you work for OSHA?   :-)

Ed

On 3/14/07, d saad <dsaad at icehouse.net> wrote:
>
>
> I would go one step farther, and ground the car body to the floor - hang a
> chain or connect to a water pipe or something.
> Next, ground yourself
> to the car. Pay attention to the type of clothes you wear, remove the
> carpet floor mat in the trunk, etc.
> Use an explosion proof flash
> light (or don't turn it on/off near the tank). Best not to use an ordinary
> trouble light with an incandesent bulb. Too easy to break it.
>
> I
> know it all seems like overkill - but you will feel awfully silly if you
> ignite the fumes in the tank while your arm is in there.
>
> Dave
>
>
> >
> From scott site ...
> >
> >
> Remove the trunk cover plate and then detach the cylindrical electrical
> > connector. I also removed the fuel-pump relay as an extra
> precaution.
> > Next,
> > detach the three fuel/vent lines.
> Don't lose the banjo bolt washers, and
> > be
> > prepared to
> wipe up the few ounces of fuel that will escape. Push the
> >
> hoses
> > aside. The multi-slot, steel retaining ring yielded to a
> few hard hammer
> >
> > strikes applied to a metal bar (no
> sparks, please); a brass bar is best,
> >
> > but I used a
> hard-plastic mallet face against a steel rod.  A big
> > screwdriver
> might work OK. Once the retainer comes off, the sender's
> > plastic
> top-plate is lifted out far enough to detach: (1) the inside
> >
> power
> > feed, (2) the 17 mm compression fitting and (3) the fuel
> return hose.
> > Let
> > them fall, or push out of the way.
> Then fully extract the sender
> > assembly
> > without
> damaging the float-arm or its tiny wires. Set it well aside.
> >
> BTW,
> > running down the tank level to about 3 gallons or less will
> assure you
> > of
> > avoiding any significant contact with
> gasoline (except fumes).
> >
> > Now you can peer inside
> (flashlight or fluorescent worklight) and study
> > the
> >
> existing configuration. Note the nooks and crannies and installed
> > orientation. It is the inner, thin plastic sleeve ( called the
> upper
> > reservoir)--with several notches that must be rotated.
> Don't ry to
> > rotate
> > that thick outer ring of the pump
> mount. Others have claimed that the
> > 3214
> > pump-removal
> tool is needed for this particular pump, and they were
> > correct!
> I could not release the old pump housing by simply twisting
> >
> with
> > my leather-gloved hand. You might have more luck.
> >
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> From:
> v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
> > Of MORRALEE David
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:42
> PM
> > To: S_Matus; V8
> > Subject: Re: [V8] FP Removal
> >
> > The opening for the Fuel tank ( fuel pump )  is in your
> trunk passenger
> > side closes to the back .
> >
> >
> -----Original Message-----
> >
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
> > Of S_Matus
> >
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:32 PM
> > To: V8
> >
> Subject: [V8] FP Removal
> >
> > OK, I have been working on
> cars since I could turn a wrench.  I cannot
> > figure out the
> procedure to get the Fuel Pump out.
> >
> > Do I need to drop
> the tank to gain access to the pump?  Cut a hole in
> > floor pan
> under the seat?
> >
> > I'm just not getting it!
> >
>
> > Confused in Colorado.
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >  Get your own web
> address.
> >  Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
> > _______________________________________________
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