[V8] Timing Belt = Half Time Show

Coleman, David David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Wed Mar 21 23:20:53 EDT 2007


My buddy and I did a complete motor R&R withou removing the bumper (or rad support, etc), but I would next time 

-davec
--------------------------
David A. Coleman
BlackRock
Sent via BlackBerry Wireless


----- Original Message -----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com <v8-bounces at audifans.com>
To: Tony and Lillie <tonyandlillie1 at earthlink.net>
Cc: V8 Audi Fans <v8 at audifans.com>
Sent: Wed Mar 21 22:34:29 2007
Subject: Re: [V8] Timing Belt = Half Time Show

Tony,

    No personal attacks were intended in regards to the KB.  I truly 
appreciate the time and effort that went into its creation and it has 
helped me immensely.

    Oh yes, those inner nuts were a doozey.  One of those "Okay, I can 
sort of see them, now how the hell am I to get to them?" things.  It 
makes me wonder how the belt was changed originally.  There's no signs 
that the bumper had been removed previously.  Had I had a tool to remove 
the fan clutch, I probably would not have removed the front end either.

    I removed the two wires from the alternator and moved the entire 
cover to another bay.  I'm going to clean up those wires and clean out 
the alternator while its off.  Had an oil leak dripping onto it until 
recently.

    Any suggestions from the rest of y'all on how to get those lines 
back on?  I've heard you're not supposed to use the bolt to "pull them" 
onto the radiator but I see no other way.....

    Also, the harmonic balancer and the crank pulley came off at once 
and it appeared that they were one unit until reasoning dictated 
otherwise.  They're pretty stuck together.  I have a feeling I'm going 
to need to separate them in order to get the belt on and tensioned?  I 
didn't pay much attention at the time (and car's locked up in the shop) 
but is the crankshaft keyed to the pulley?  I would imagine it is so one 
could determine TDC.

    My chrome didn't seem to want to come off with just those two 
phillips removed and I didn't want to force it.  Do all those other nuts 
along the underside hold it on as well?  OR:  by off do you mean 
completely off the car, or just off the rest of the body? 

    Going back and looking at the KB again, I can see that the right cam 
shifted for you as well.  It's hard to make out details on my printed copy.

    Yes, the second bolt breaking was my own stupid fault.  Both times I 
was getting in a rush and not paying proper attention to how much torque 
I was applying.  I might consider going back to the oil pump and 
replacing the seal that's in there (I paid for it, why not?) that I 
forgot about and properly torquing those allen head bolts (I think 
they're over-torqued right now). 

    The water pump has been removed a couple times.  The Torx bolts are 
in there tight with a 1/4" ratchet (4.5" long) but I'm scared of that 
thing leaking once the sucker's back together.  Oy.

    I am not planning on dicking with the camshaft sprockets (i.e. 
loosening them for tensioning).  As long as I ensure a tight belt 
between the sprockets and on the non-tensioned side, is this going to 
cause any ill effects?

Another day in paradise,
Scott Simmons

P.S. ~ once again, folks, thanks for the help. 

Tony and Lillie wrote:

> I wrote that article. It was very quick, and from someone a little too 
> experienced to remember all the little details that really come up. 
> Kent was actually kind enough to put it in the KB for me. So, with 
> that in mind, I'm glad fdor the added insight. I'll go back and add 
> some details you pointed out, and have it updated.
>
> As for the cam turning, that is somewhat normal. The cams want to line 
> up where the least tension is on them, which is not always #1 TDC.
>
> Don't know about the crank lock tool. Mine was homemade. I only used 
> it to take off the crank bolt, then set it aside.
>
> I didn't use the crank lock tools either. I almost had the set 
> finished that I was building, but ended up in too much of a hurry to 
> finish them.
>
> My wiring on the front end is significantly different from the 
> factory, so I couldn't use it as a reference point. I've relayed all 
> the front lights and added 100W High beams.
>
> Those two nuts on the front bumper - oops. I forgot they are on some 
> cars still. Most have had them removed and thrown out. They are 
> unnecessary. If you use the tow hook, it attaches directly to the car.
>
> Glad you figured out the timing dots. I've taken some pics since then 
> (didn't use them for that) and I'll add those as well.
>
> The chrome trim comes off with two philliips screws on each fender. 
> There is a pic in that writeup
>
> Also, I didn't remove the trans lines, as shown in the pics.
>
> As for the alternator, I didn't remove it from the cover. Just put ot 
> to the side with the right TB cover.
>
> The radiator support should go back in fairly easily. I'm sure it's 
> not as easy as I remember, but I'm no He-Man, and I was able to do the 
> job myself. Not to say that a helper wouldn't have, well, helped a 
> great deal at times.
>
> As for miller time, I've consumed plenty of Alcohol (Jack or everclear 
> for me) to have enough patience for completing a project. Just don't 
> have so much you forget things ;-) I'll have to say the second bolt 
> would have been about the end of my patience. Thankfully, I had no 
> such problems, and was able to get mine done in two short evenings as 
> a result.
>
>
> Hope this helps,
> Tony Hoffman
>
>

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