[V8] Timing Belt-Carlisle is slipping away

d saad dsaad at icehouse.net
Wed May 16 10:48:23 EDT 2007



I don't know what it is with these bolts, but this seems to be a
common problem.
They seem to have a smaller than normal head area.
We have to stress that only a high quality 6-point socket be used on
these to any t-belt newbies,
and you must have the socket squarely
over the bolt head.
This should be added to any t-belt procedures.

On your problem Lanier, have you tried a 6-point socket?
Here
is a thought - I think a 1/2 inch is slightly smaller than a 12mm. If you
have a 6-point 1/2" socket and a hand impact tool (the kind you
strike with a hammer) maybe you can force it out that way. The impact will
help to break loose the threads and with luck, the smaller socket will
bite the head. 
The same technique works wonders too for the torx
screws on the water pump. 
I use a 1/4" drive breaker bar with
the torx bit. As I apply pressure to loosen the screw, I tap the breaker
bar. I never use enough pressure to strip the head - letting the hammer
taps break the threads loose.
The only caveat is that you can not
just beat the snot out of it with a sledge hammer.
I think Newton
said it best - for every action - there is an equal and opposite
re-action.
In this case, the reaction will come from your wallet.

On re-assembly I used anti-seize on all of these bolts.

Dave

> Ok guys.  Tony and Ron have been amazing help.
 I have now hit a
> snag.  While attempting to take out the very
last 12mm bolt that is
> left in the passenger side timing belt
cover I stripped it.  I've had
> a few suggestions thus far
including grinding a flat head slot in the
> bolt to be removed
with a slotted screw driver or simply grind off
> the bolt head. 
Any other ideas before I proceed to do damage to the
> bolt?
> 
> Lanier Pratt
> '92 V8Q 4.2L
> '90 V8Q
3.6L
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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