[V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
Coleman, David
David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Wed May 23 11:09:58 EDT 2007
Funny you mention that -- I've had one rotor that with a bit of a vise
squeeze, cracked and practically crumbled right off the shaft, and
another one that was like chipping barnacles off a prop shaft. Must've
been some glue.
-dc-
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MORRALEE David [mailto:David.Morralee at alcatel-lucent.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:03 AM
> To: Coleman, David; d saad; v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: [V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
>
> A gentle squeeze with a pair of vise grips works to. ( at
> the base of
> the rotor, it cracks the plastic and it comes off easily )
> Superdave 4.2
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Coleman, David
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:56 AM
> To: d saad; v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
>
> I second that -- almost. I too remove my distributors and
> use a vise to crack the rotors, but also find a little
> finesse with a small hammer and chisel goes a long way to get
> all the little pieces off.
>
> Good intel on the caps. Now I gotta look to see if mine are
> different!
>
> -dc-
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> > [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of d saad
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: v8 at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: [V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
> >
> >
> >
> > I seem to recall someone using a hammer. Shudder!!
> >
> > The
> > distributors are so easy to remove, why not just do that, and then
> > crack them off with a vise? No way to do damage that way.
> >
> > btw, I had
> > to get a new cap for the right side, and I got the real OEM
> cap with
> > the correct shield from importpartsspec.com. The cap itself is the
> > same for either side, but the shield is different because
> of the hall
> > sender. On my car, both rotors are the same, and have the "small"
> > shaft.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > > I'm going to be doing a cap & rotor
> > change here in a few months and have
> > > verified that mine are (on
> > the right side, at least) the push-on type.
> > >
> > > What's
> > the procedure for removal? I know on 944s, with "push on"
> > > rotors, one usually had to destroy the old one with a
> hammer to get
> > it
> > > off. Same for the V8?
> > >
> > > As for my
> > starter.............. broke another 10mm box end wrench, but
> > > did
> > get that bolt out on my last one. Liberally coated the bolts with
> > > anti-seize before installation of new starter. Flywheel looked a
> > bit
> > > chewed on but no troubles.
> > >
> > > Old starter
> > would have the gear easily slip-slop back and forth in its
> > >
> > housing. I reckon a PO burned up the starter by trying to
> start the
> > car
> > > regardless of the bad flywheel sensor. "Well gee, it's
> > not starting...
> > > let's keep on
> > crankcrankcrankcrankcranksizzlecrankcrankcrank."
> > >
> > >
> > At $3.40/gal for regular unleaded, I'm moving on to a new oxygen
> > sensor...
> > > Scott Simmons
> > >
> > > cobram at juno.com
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >>Back on Wed, 9 Jul 2003 my computer says I
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >>"There are two rotors used on the
> > V8Q's, you have to visually check to
> > >>match it up.
> > >>
> > >>Bosch 04 214 has the set screw hole and is black
> > in color (shared with
> > >>the Yugo of all cars)
> > >>
> > >>Bosch 04 310 is the "push on-glued on rotor" also
> > listed as 1234332399,
> > >>burnt orange color
> > >>
> > >>The GTI16V Bosch rotor (052 905 225C and 04170) is the same one
> > found on
> > >>a large number of Audi/VW 4 and 5 cylinder models
> > from 1984-1999. I
> > >>don't know how good a substitute it is,
> > but for the extra $10 I'd opt for
> > >>the original V8Q Bosch call
> > number.
> > >>
> > >>The 04038 you cited is a BMW
> > application."
> > >>
> > >>I don't know if the numbers
> > are still valid.
> > >>I'll do recall that the precise application
> > you can ask for at your local
> > >>FLAPS is the 90 VW Golf GTI
> > (2.0L, 16v). Early builds used the Yugo
> > >>cross reference. My
> > first two 1990 V8Q's had a year or so difference in
> > >>build
> > date, which might explain the two different shaft sizes. Of course
> > >>the Audi SHAFT SIZE was always very large, you could ONLY
> > officially buy
> > >>the rotors as part of the entire distributor
> > assembly. ;-)
> > >>
> > >>BCNU,
> > >>http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
> > >>
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> > >>
> > >
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