[V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
MORRALEE David
David.Morralee at alcatel-lucent.com
Wed May 23 11:03:27 EDT 2007
A gentle squeeze with a pair of vise grips works to. ( at the base of
the rotor, it cracks the plastic and it comes off easily )
Superdave 4.2
-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
Of Coleman, David
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:56 AM
To: d saad; v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
I second that -- almost. I too remove my distributors and use a vise to
crack the rotors, but also find a little finesse with a small hammer and
chisel goes a long way to get all the little pieces off.
Good intel on the caps. Now I gotta look to see if mine are different!
-dc-
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of d saad
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> To: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] Ignition Rotor Spec
>
>
>
> I seem to recall someone using a hammer. Shudder!!
>
> The
> distributors are so easy to remove, why not just do that, and then
> crack them off with a vise? No way to do damage that way.
>
> btw, I had
> to get a new cap for the right side, and I got the real OEM cap with
> the correct shield from importpartsspec.com. The cap itself is the
> same for either side, but the shield is different because of the hall
> sender. On my car, both rotors are the same, and have the "small"
> shaft.
>
> Dave
>
> > I'm going to be doing a cap & rotor
> change here in a few months and have
> > verified that mine are (on
> the right side, at least) the push-on type.
> >
> > What's
> the procedure for removal? I know on 944s, with "push on"
> > rotors, one usually had to destroy the old one with a hammer to get
> it
> > off. Same for the V8?
> >
> > As for my
> starter.............. broke another 10mm box end wrench, but
> > did
> get that bolt out on my last one. Liberally coated the bolts with
> > anti-seize before installation of new starter. Flywheel looked a
> bit
> > chewed on but no troubles.
> >
> > Old starter
> would have the gear easily slip-slop back and forth in its
> >
> housing. I reckon a PO burned up the starter by trying to start the
> car
> > regardless of the bad flywheel sensor. "Well gee, it's
> not starting...
> > let's keep on
> crankcrankcrankcrankcranksizzlecrankcrankcrank."
> >
> >
> At $3.40/gal for regular unleaded, I'm moving on to a new oxygen
> sensor...
> > Scott Simmons
> >
> > cobram at juno.com
> wrote:
> >
> >>Back on Wed, 9 Jul 2003 my computer says I
> wrote:
> >>
> >>"There are two rotors used on the
> V8Q's, you have to visually check to
> >>match it up.
> >>
> >>Bosch 04 214 has the set screw hole and is black
> in color (shared with
> >>the Yugo of all cars)
> >>
> >>Bosch 04 310 is the "push on-glued on rotor" also
> listed as 1234332399,
> >>burnt orange color
> >>
> >>The GTI16V Bosch rotor (052 905 225C and 04170) is the same one
> found on
> >>a large number of Audi/VW 4 and 5 cylinder models
> from 1984-1999. I
> >>don't know how good a substitute it is,
> but for the extra $10 I'd opt for
> >>the original V8Q Bosch call
> number.
> >>
> >>The 04038 you cited is a BMW
> application."
> >>
> >>I don't know if the numbers
> are still valid.
> >>I'll do recall that the precise application
> you can ask for at your local
> >>FLAPS is the 90 VW Golf GTI
> (2.0L, 16v). Early builds used the Yugo
> >>cross reference. My
> first two 1990 V8Q's had a year or so difference in
> >>build
> date, which might explain the two different shaft sizes. Of course
> >>the Audi SHAFT SIZE was always very large, you could ONLY
> officially buy
> >>the rotors as part of the entire distributor
> assembly. ;-)
> >>
> >>BCNU,
> >>http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
> >>
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