[V8] No rear brake light wackyness

[Ron Wainwright]

For those of you that have helped me out with this I
thank you! It's great too se soo many help me since
I'm usta helping you all.......but,
 I found the problem..& you'r going to love this cause
it was the 1st thing I looked at. Fuse #3 poweres the
rear brake lights & a few other things, so when I
pulled that fuse it felt kinda easy to yank, but I
didn't think anything of it cause the fuse was still
good. But as I mentioned from my original post, 

Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote: 
So I check the fuses & while didling with fuse 
#3....horn/brake lights/P-lock buzzer/2nd & 3rd stage 
fan relay...I can see it lighting up, or arching, & 
while pushing the horn in I hear & feel the Logic 
relay for P/N-lock & relay for back-up-lights click. 


so there was my answer the whole time...the Femal
connectors that acept the fuse weren't clamped down
tightley enough cause the Femal side opened up a bit
too much to get a good contact. 

So there you have it folks...I'll be replacing the
fuse box over the weekend.

 Ron

--- Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> wrote:

> According to the wiring diagram... power comes from
> terminal 30 (battery 
> power) to the 25 amp fuse (fuse #3?) which does the
> horn relay too, I 
> guess, hm...
> 
> After that, it leaves the fuse box and goes directly
> to the brake light 
> switch.  If your test light or DMM is on a good
> ground, you should have 
> at least 12V there (red/blue).  If you don't, then
> check for continuity 
> between the red/blue wire and the output end of the
> fuse.
> 
> How?  Remove the 25 amp fuse.  Check to see which
> side of the slot 
> (where the fuse goes) is input (12V from battery)
> and which side is 
> output (no voltage, no test light lighty up).  Set
> your DMM to the 
> lowest ohm setting it has (usually 2 ohms or
> similar).  Place one of 
> your DMM leads into the output side of the fuse's
> slot and the other 
> terminal into the plug at the brake switch where the
> red/blue wire comes 
> in. 
> 
> A good wire will show <1 ohm.  This verifies the
> quality and condition 
> of the wire between the fuse and the brake light
> switch.
> 
> I can attach a quick drawing of what I mean if you
> like, I know I'm not 
> explaining this very clearly.
> 
> ~Scott S.
> 
> Ron Wainwright wrote:
> 
> >Ok, comments inserted below.......
> >
> >--- Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>The brake light switch gets its power from a 25 am
> >>fuse, through a 
> >>red/blue wire to the switch, and red/black takes
> >>that power ..er.. 
> >>elsewhere.  Verify 12V at the red/blue wire on the
> >>brake light switch 
> >>(at the pedal).  This power is also going to the
> >>Shift Lock warning 
> >>buzzer... so is that the one that yells at you if
> >>you're in drive and 
> >>open the door? 
> >>    
> >>
> >
> > I checked for 12v at the switch as you said & it's
> >not even close...but I could be doing it wrong. 
> > Shift lock warning...this is on my Grey 5spd.
> >
> >  
> >
> >>As far as brake switch failures, if they don't
> back
> >>out then the problem 
> >>is usually a bad spring on the inside that doesn't
> >>let the button pop 
> >>out and doesn't connect the two lines, thus no
> >>lights.
> >>    
> >>
> >
> > Spring is fine, in the one I pulled & in the one I
> >replaced it with.
> > 
> >  
> >
> >>Dumb question:  You checked continuity on the
> bright
> >>filiment on both 
> >>bulbs, right?
> >>    
> >>
> >
> > I checked the rear bulbs inside the trunk & the
> test
> >light lite up
> > 
> >  
> >
> >>Another dumb quetsion:  You checked for 12V at
> both
> >>terminals in the 
> >>bulb socket, right?
> >>    
> >>
> >
> > Again yes
> >
> >  
> >
> >>In sum:  check for 12V at the red/blue wire at the
> >>brake light switch.
> >>
> >>~Scott S.
> >>    
> >>
> >
> > Well as I mentioned I did & it wasn't even
> >close...again, that is if I did it rite. The
> reading
> >was going up & down...but was all way's under 005.0
> >with the meeter set at VDC.
> >
> > HELP.
> >
> > Ron
> >
> >  
> >
> >>Ron Wainwright wrote:
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> >>>You know how I'm stupid whenh it comes to
> >>>this......how would I "jump the switch"? 
> >>>
> >>>Ron
> >>>
> >>>--- Scott Phillips <Scottp at ippe.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>>
> >>>      
> >>>
> >>>>Ron.. if you just jump the switch the lights
> >>>>        
> >>>>
> >>should
> >>    
> >>
> >>>>come on
> >>>>
> >>>>Scott
> >>>>
> >>>>-----Original Message-----
> >>>>From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> >>>>[mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
> >>>>Of Ron Wainwright
> >>>>Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:46 PM
> >>>>To: Ingo Rautenberg
> >>>>Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> >>>>Subject: Re: [V8] No rear brake light wackyness
> >>>>
> >>>>Ok, again I just checked the Black switch & with
> >>>>        
> >>>>
> >>the
> >>    
> >>
> >>>>pedal pressed in or not the circuit tester
> doesn't
> >>>>light up.
> >>>>So I'll replace the Black switch & see what
> >>>>happens.
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanx
> >>>>Ron
> >>>>
> >>>>--- Ingo Rautenberg <ingo.rautenberg at gmail.com>
> >>>>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>   
> >>>>
> >>>>        
> >>>>
> >>>>>Ron, I believe the black one is for the brake
> >>>>>     
> >>>>>
> >>>>>          
> >>>>>
> >>>>lights
> >>>>   
> >>>>
> >>>>        
> >>>>
> >>>>>and the clear is  
> >>>>>for the cruise control interrupt switch.  The
> one
> >>>>>for the brake  
> >>>>>lights works such that when the brake pedal is
> >>>>>depressed the switch,  
> >>>>>which is normally closed, is opened and when
> open
> >>>>>the contacts inside  
> 
=== message truncated ===



       
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