[V8] 92 Audi V8 headlight question

[Ed Kellock]

But...

If the mechanic was supposed to wire it back up normally, in the stock
configuration, then he must have done something wrong if you're getting an
autocheck error.

Ed

> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com 
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Kneale Brownson
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:30 AM
> To: TAS; v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] 92 Audi V8 headlight question
> 
> 
> From a really old Audifans posting, you can defeat the light 
> bulb warning this way:
>    
>   "Remove the headlamp bulb monitor ( aka warning relay) and 
> bend pin  "K" 90 
> degrees so when you reinsert it into its socket pin K no 
> longer makes any  
> contact. This prevents the ground signal from being sent to 
> the Cluster.  :)
> 
> 100/200 has the monitor in the relay rack behind the drivers 
> knee  pad, V8 
> has it located in the pass floorboard relay rack. It looks 
> like a  big double 
> relay and each pin is clearly labeled on the bottom of the  monitor."
>    
>   As an alternative, you can remove the relay altogether and 
> jumper the slots with a pair of male connectors crimped onto 
> a short piece of 14 gauge wire.  Here's an equally old writeup:
>    
>   Here's Ingo's V8 adaptation of Igor's lamp-out warning 
> cancellation :How to get to relay for V8:
> 
> 
> 1.  Remove pass side (US) insulated base carpet. Put seat all 
> they way back.
> 
> 
> 2.  Remove fuse panel carpet on right side of pass footwell 
> (unscrew two knurled knobs holding carpeted panel in place.
> 
> 
> 3.  Remove two screws attaching center console carpet to 
> relay box (where your passenger's feet would be) and pull 
> carpeted panel by center console downward and away from tunnel.
> 
> 
> 4.  Look over diagrams on relay box.  One is labeled lamp 
> warning, I believe (no. 7).  The V8 has a unique way of 
> cramming all its relays through sliding trays which you will 
> see shortly.  Remove two more screws (one at top of cover, 
> the other on right bottom, and remove.
> 
> 
> 5.  Slide out(pull) top (in my case) shelf as indicated by 
> relay diagram, so that relay tops are facing you.  The 
> "culprit is marked "281" aka 443 919 469B. Remove.
> 
> 
> 6.  Take four spade connectors(blue ones if insulated at the hardware
> store)
> and six inches of  14 ga. wiring, cut to make two 3" pcs. and 
> crimp corresponding spade connectors .  I removed spade 
> insulation for better crimping and then put heatshrink tubing 
> on exposed surfaces.  Don't know how diagram will come out, 
> but here's how wires plugged into my relay socket (\ and / 
> indicating 3" 14 ga wires, == and II indicating spade connector
> locations):
> 
> 
>             56bL1
>            ====
>                     \
>     II  56bR       II  56bL
>     II                 II
>          \
>               II
>               II  56bR1
> 
> 
> Very logical, but remember, always double check before 
> testing.  Test and reassemble minus relay.  Any additional 
> questions, check out Igor's earlier post or Al Powell's 
> response from January 1, 1997 entitled "Keeper:
>   Defeating Headlight Warning."
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> TAS <nap026 at cox.net> wrote:
>   I recently had my zeon (spelling?) bulbs and ballast 
> removed and re-wired to accept regular bulbs. In doing so, 
> the headlight warning light/buzzer comes on when I have the 
> low beams on. Everything still works, just need to get rid of 
> the warninglight. The mechanic that worked on it said I would 
> new some type of modul and he thought it would be expensive. 
> Any thoughts/suggestions. Thanks, TAS 
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