[V8] Stick a fork in the V8 I am done ;-)
Dave Saad
dsaad at icehouse.net
Tue Aug 5 08:08:04 PDT 2008
If I was me (and I am), I would remove the pump from the car, and fix
or have it fixed right the first time. It is not that hard to get
the pump off the motor, and in the long run you save time. As I
recall, you need to remove anything that is in your way - like the
oil tank, heat shield, air snorkel, or whatever. I always find it is
easier to get things out of my way than to fight it. While you are
in this far, if you were me, you would seriously consider removing
all the power steering hoses and sending them to Spokane Hose for
rebuild. For me this meant removing the ignition coils, and whatever
else was in the way. Now with such easy access to the steering rack,
I would also remove it and replace the boot that is almost certainly
torn and allowing dirt to accumulate and causing the shafts/seals to
fail. Once done with this rather painful procedure, I would install
an inline oil filter in the rack return line and then keep my fingers
crossed that when they finally tow grandpas old antique Audi with the
funny gasoline burning motor in it to the boneyard, it will not be
leaking any hydraulic oil. Refill the system with Chevron RYKON 32
oil, and flush the system a few times in the first year after you do
all of this work - you will have 5 gallons of oil to use up anyway.
Eventually, the oil will run clear. I did not take my own advice and
ended up doing this in about three steps. We know for certain that
the hoses and pump are going to start leaking, and the rack boot is
going to tear. May as well just face it and do the repair once.
Depending on what you do to the pump, this whole thing should cost
less than $300 (and a lot of time).
Dave
On Aug 4, 2008, at 10:46 PM, Ed Kellock wrote:
> Yes, to remove the pump, all these things help a lot. I also
> removed the
> heat shield that bolts to the frame rail.
>
> When I removed that one x-cap w/o removing the pump, I just had the
> belly
> pan off and jacked up the car a bit, threw a jack stand underneath and
> worked from the bottom w/ a mirror and a light to help me see what
> I was
> doing. I used a 1/2-inch drive ratchet with the drag link socket
> and there
> was just enough room to fit it inside the frame rail and get the
> cap loose
> and tightened at the end of the job.
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
>> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Kneale Brownson
>> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:25 PM
>> To: Greg Furstenwerth; V8 List
>> Subject: Re: [V8] Stick a fork in the V8 I am done ;-)
>>
>>
>> If you take out the air plumbing and remove the electric fan,
>> then pull off the pulley, you can wiggle out the pump.
>>
>> I've done it that way several times. Others report taking
>> off the driver side timing belt cover helps considerably.
>> That'll be what I do next time, which may be in a week or so.
>>
>> Greg Furstenwerth <slicerdicer at mac.com> wrote:
>> I guess my main question is how do you get access to the pump?
>>
>> Ed Kellock wrote:
>>> There are several x-caps on the pump. If you're lucky and
>> it's not one
>>> that's covered (that's about all BUT one) then you'll need a sorta
>>> special tool that is kind of like a very large common
>> screwdriver that
>>> is a socket. I believe they're called impact drivers. The official
>>> torque on the caps is not great, but if it hasn't been off
>> in a long
>>> while or if it's been off and overtorqued, it may take some
>> patience.
>>> I pulled the pump to replace the o-ring on mine the first time and
>>> paid the price in that I found the mounting bolts for the pump,
>>> actually the holes they bolt into, were stripped. I got it back
>>> together okay and then had to replace the o-ring again (my
>> fault). I
>>> did not want to disturb the mounting bolts again so I did
>> it while on
>>> the car.
>>>
>>> Ed
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
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