[V8] Distributor rotor replacements

Sun Jan 25 15:44:53 PST 2009

I bought some cheap caps from Rock Auto several months ago and installed
them about 2 weeks ago. Within a week the car developed a misfire.  One of
the "towers" on the cap was cracked.  I may have pushed too hard on it when
I installed the wire on it, but I was not impressed.  When I got out the
replaced caps back out, they are the OEM Bosch ones, you could actually feel
the difference in the weight of the cap due to the sturdier construction.  I
probably won't skrimp on buying caps in the future.  They expensive bastards
though so I can totally understand the attraction.  

Ed

> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com 
> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Ron Wainwright
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 10:42 AM
> To: Mark Kalbskopf
> Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> 
> 
> Agree on the R&R of both dizzy & flange seals.
> 
>  On the p-side dizzy, yes that connector is the Hall Sender & 
> from the sounds of it it's not performing it's job. While the 
> car will obviousley still start & run without it.... the car 
> is certainley lacking power wise with it being bad!  Sounds 
> like the plastic connector @ the dizzy housing is broke? If 
> so I would inspect the small gauge wires under the broke 
> connector. I'd be worried that one or some of them are 
> compromised now.  I have a good used one if you need it.
> 
>  The two connectors @ the fuel rail are the knock sensors. & 
> sounds like they should be replaced. I got mine from Bruce... 
> but check e-bay they are cheap there. If you need any links I 
> can suppley them for you.
> 
>  As far as the inj..... the 3.6 inj are different in that 
> they have a seperated spacer & an o-ring. No pintal cap @ the 
> end/nozzle.... it's just metal. 
>  You can ask around for the rebuild kits for the 3.6 inj. 
> Scott Dewitt could possibley get the kits.. but you can get 
> them @ the dealer for sure. But if you search e-bay you can 
> find modern/non-different inj. Be mindfull that the Inj for 
> the 3.6 are 14.25lbs!
> 
>  If you need a FPR I have two with very low miles. The one on 
> my 5sp only has 20 minutes worth of driving on it. The one in 
> my wife's old V8 has a few thousand K's. But if not,  you can 
> find FPR on e-bay for like $70'ish. I haven't bought one from 
> e-bay so I have no idea if they are true Bosch made in 
> Germany FPR?! But the ones I have are made in germany. Some 
> listers who have recientley bought FPR were reported to be 
> made in China <yuk>!  The FPR line @ the back of the FPR that 
> enters the Intake area is very importaint!!!! I'de suggest 
> getting a new one from the dealer.. I would NOT just use line 
> from your local FLAPS! The rear line that goes around the 
> intake openning can be gotten from the local FLAPS... BTDT. 
> Just take your old hose down with you to size it up.
> 
>  As far as whatelse you should replace..... how deep is your 
> wallet?....LOL I'de suggest the Intake gaskets, VC gaskets, 
> spark plugs, maybe temp sensors, four wire 02, ect ect 
> ect.......... the list could go on :-)
> 
>  CAPS... they are expensive! I have heard that you could use 
> a cap from a Yugo??????? Maybe some other listers know for 
> sure???? & use the Burnt Orange rotors. The d-side dizzy 
> calls for a Black set screw type rotor.. but DO NOT use it! 
> Just get two of the Orange ones.
> 
>  Ron
> 
> 
> --- On Sun, 1/25/09, Mark Kalbskopf <gbmarc at cox.net> wrote:
> 
> > From: Mark Kalbskopf <gbmarc at cox.net>
> > Subject: Re: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> > To: v8 at audifans.com
> > Date: Sunday, January 25, 2009, 12:11 PM
> > I have decided to go a little deeper at the moment, so I
> > have plenty
> > of room.
> > I'm going to replace the O-rings on the distributors
> > and the blue  
> > seals beneath them.
> > (I still think getting the distribs off is a pain though)
> > 
> > On my RHS dist. there is an electrical connector on top
> > which has
> > disintegrated. I thing it might be for the Hall sensor, but
> > I'm not  
> > sure.
> > Trying to figure out what to do as I guess it means a new
> > distributor  
> > to replace that connector.  or else I guess I could just
> > strap it into  
> > place using some plastic ties.
> > 
> > The whole plastic connector issue is a problem at this age, as they
> > all seem to crumble.
> > I have the whole inlet manifold off right now, to get at
> > the water  
> > pipe below it, and in removing the manifold, there are two
> > electrical  
> > connectors on the very top of it (I think they might be for
> > the knock  
> > sensors) which came apart in my hands. In fact the whole
> > length of the  
> > wire for these has all the plastic cracking up.
> > Maybe I should replace the sensors too, as I'm here?
> > 
> > Also I notice the ends of the little orange seals on the 
> bottom of the
> > fuel injectors has damage on a couple of them.
> > And maybe I should do the pressure regulator since I have
> > all the  
> > lines disconnected.  Not to mention the breather hose
> > underneath the  
> > manifold!
> >   It never ends!
> > All the thick vacuum lines (one from the FPR, and one at
> > the rear by  
> > the airbox, snapped off in my hand because they were so
> > brittle.
> > 
> > Anything else I should do?
> > Do the injectors ever need cleaning?
> > 
> > Mark.
> > 
> > 
> > 
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