[V8] Distributor cap/rotor replacements

Ed Kellock ekellock at gmail.com
Sun Jan 25 22:31:17 PST 2009 

Understandable.  60 bones a piece is a lot, no matter who they come from,
but you can't find them any cheaper, IME.  I think the Rock Auto ones I got
were 60 for the pair and I had to swap over the black plastic covers, etc.
which seemed like no big deal.  I'm still not sure why the one broke, it
could have been my fault for being indelicate.  The other one is still on
there and is fine.  Whatever.  

The reason I changed the caps was excessive crank times when cold.  Turns
out it was probably due to weak battery because of a worn voltage regulator
resulting in a poorly charged battery.  The long crank times are still an
issue, but only when the car has been driven recently, which seems more like
a fuel pressure issue than ignition.  When the car is cold from sitting
overnight, startup is not a problem.

All of this sort of underscores what the good news really is... replacing
caps and rotors has never resolved anything I've ever been trying to fix.
With the V8, it's always been more about vacuum leaks and sensors.  I've
removed and cleaned up many a cap and rotor and found that replacement with
new offered no better results.

Ed

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Wainwright [mailto:ron_01056 at yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 6:32 PM
> To: Ed Kellock
> Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> 
> 
> I've never not gotten anything but the Bosch caps. & I've 
> never not gotten them from anyone other than Bruce :-) I 
> think the last set cost me no more than $60 apeace.
> 
>  Ron
> 
> 
> --- On Sun, 1/25/09, Ed Kellock <ekellock at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Ed Kellock <ekellock at gmail.com>
> > Subject: RE: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> > To: ron_01056 at yahoo.com, "'Mark Kalbskopf'" <gbmarc at cox.net>
> > Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> > Date: Sunday, January 25, 2009, 6:44 PM
> > I bought some cheap caps from Rock Auto several months ago and 
> > installed them about 2 weeks ago. Within a week the car developed a
> > misfire.  One of
> > the "towers" on the cap was cracked.  I may have
> > pushed too hard on it when
> > I installed the wire on it, but I was not impressed.  When
> > I got out the
> > replaced caps back out, they are the OEM Bosch ones, you
> > could actually feel
> > the difference in the weight of the cap due to the sturdier
> > construction.  I
> > probably won't skrimp on buying caps in the future. 
> > They expensive bastards
> > though so I can totally understand the attraction.  
> > 
> > Ed
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
> > > [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Ron
> > Wainwright
> > > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 10:42 AM
> > > To: Mark Kalbskopf
> > > Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> > > Subject: Re: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Agree on the R&R of both dizzy & flange seals.
> > > 
> > >  On the p-side dizzy, yes that connector is the Hall
> > Sender &
> > > from the sounds of it it's not performing it's
> > job. While the
> > > car will obviousley still start & run without
> > it.... the car
> > > is certainley lacking power wise with it being bad!
> > Sounds
> > > like the plastic connector @ the dizzy housing is
> > broke? If
> > > so I would inspect the small gauge wires under the
> > broke
> > > connector. I'd be worried that one or some of them
> > are
> > > compromised now.  I have a good used one if you need
> > it.
> > > 
> > >  The two connectors @ the fuel rail are the knock
> > sensors. &
> > > sounds like they should be replaced. I got mine from
> > Bruce...
> > > but check e-bay they are cheap there. If you need any
> > links I
> > > can suppley them for you.
> > > 
> > >  As far as the inj..... the 3.6 inj are different in
> > that
> > > they have a seperated spacer & an o-ring. No
> > pintal cap @ the
> > > end/nozzle.... it's just metal.
> > >  You can ask around for the rebuild kits for the 3.6
> > inj.
> > > Scott Dewitt could possibley get the kits.. but you
> > can get
> > > them @ the dealer for sure. But if you search e-bay
> > you can
> > > find modern/non-different inj. Be mindfull that the
> > Inj for
> > > the 3.6 are 14.25lbs!
> > > 
> > >  If you need a FPR I have two with very low miles. The
> > one on
> > > my 5sp only has 20 minutes worth of driving on it. The
> > one in
> > > my wife's old V8 has a few thousand K's. But
> > if not,  you can
> > > find FPR on e-bay for like $70'ish. I haven't
> > bought one from
> > > e-bay so I have no idea if they are true Bosch made in
> > 
> > > Germany FPR?! But the ones I have are made in germany.
> > Some
> > > listers who have recientley bought FPR were reported
> > to be
> > > made in China <yuk>!  The FPR line @ the back of
> > the FPR that
> > > enters the Intake area is very importaint!!!! I'de
> > suggest
> > > getting a new one from the dealer.. I would NOT just
> > use line
> > > from your local FLAPS! The rear line that goes around
> > the
> > > intake openning can be gotten from the local FLAPS...
> > BTDT.
> > > Just take your old hose down with you to size it up.
> > > 
> > >  As far as whatelse you should replace..... how deep
> > is your
> > > wallet?....LOL I'de suggest the Intake gaskets, VC
> > gaskets,
> > > spark plugs, maybe temp sensors, four wire 02, ect ect
> > 
> > > ect.......... the list could go on :-)
> > > 
> > >  CAPS... they are expensive! I have heard that you
> > could use
> > > a cap from a Yugo??????? Maybe some other listers know
> > for
> > > sure???? & use the Burnt Orange rotors. The d-side
> > dizzy
> > > calls for a Black set screw type rotor.. but DO NOT
> > use it!
> > > Just get two of the Orange ones.
> > > 
> > >  Ron
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- On Sun, 1/25/09, Mark Kalbskopf
> > <gbmarc at cox.net> wrote:
> > > 
> > > > From: Mark Kalbskopf <gbmarc at cox.net>
> > > > Subject: Re: [V8] Distributor rotor replacements
> > > > To: v8 at audifans.com
> > > > Date: Sunday, January 25, 2009, 12:11 PM
> > > > I have decided to go a little deeper at the
> > moment, so I
> > > > have plenty
> > > > of room.
> > > > I'm going to replace the O-rings on the
> > distributors
> > > > and the blue
> > > > seals beneath them.
> > > > (I still think getting the distribs off is a pain
> > though)
> > > > 
> > > > On my RHS dist. there is an electrical connector
> > on top
> > > > which has
> > > > disintegrated. I thing it might be for the Hall
> > sensor, but
> > > > I'm not
> > > > sure.
> > > > Trying to figure out what to do as I guess it
> > means a new
> > > > distributor
> > > > to replace that connector.  or else I guess I
> > could just
> > > > strap it into
> > > > place using some plastic ties.
> > > > 
> > > > The whole plastic connector issue is a problem at
> > this age, as they
> > > > all seem to crumble.
> > > > I have the whole inlet manifold off right now, to
> > get at
> > > > the water
> > > > pipe below it, and in removing the manifold,
> > there are two
> > > > electrical
> > > > connectors on the very top of it (I think they
> > might be for
> > > > the knock
> > > > sensors) which came apart in my hands. In fact
> > the whole
> > > > length of the
> > > > wire for these has all the plastic cracking up.
> > > > Maybe I should replace the sensors too, as
> > I'm here?
> > > > 
> > > > Also I notice the ends of the little orange seals
> > on the
> > > bottom of the
> > > > fuel injectors has damage on a couple of them.
> > > > And maybe I should do the pressure regulator
> > since I have
> > > > all the
> > > > lines disconnected.  Not to mention the breather
> > hose
> > > > underneath the
> > > > manifold!
> > > >   It never ends!
> > > > All the thick vacuum lines (one from the FPR, and
> > one at
> > > > the rear by
> > > > the airbox, snapped off in my hand because they
> > were so
> > > > brittle.
> > > > 
> > > > Anything else I should do?
> > > > Do the injectors ever need cleaning?
> > > > 
> > > > Mark.
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
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