[V8] FW: 20Valve Avant update: arithmetic

Roger Woodbury rmwoodbury at roadrunner.com
Sun Nov 15 08:15:48 PST 2009


 

 

 I think this is the fault of the guy who runs Microsoft. He knows I am not
a fan, and I think my posts are being sabotaged. He did drive a Porsche
Turbo once, and maybe that's it d'ya think?

 

Anyway, this is ZWEI, and DREI is coming, as I think I will outfox everyone
by breaking this whole thread into THREE parts, since I don't think part two
made it either.

 

 

  

  _____  

From: Roger Woodbury [mailto:rmwoodbury at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 8:18 AM
To: 'v8 at audifans.com'
Subject: 20Valve Avant update - Part Deux  (That's French!  SORRY!  Should
have been:  DREI!)

 

 

What I saw was a relatively average mileage Audi Avant.ten or eleven
thousand miles a year up here isn't much, so at 200,000+ miles that appear
to have no damage history, this might be a good restoration project that
could yield a good driver.  Here is my arithmetic:

 

*         Purchase price:  LESS than $1,000, and preferably about $500.
Mouse nest and mice NOT included.

*         Restoration:    Start and drive the car.  If clutch is weak,
remove the engine

o        Engine: Budget:  $3000.  

*         Timing belt service complete

*         Replace fuel injection hoses, rubber grommets and gizzies

*         Inspect and replace plastic liquid containers if required

*         Replace heater control valve

*         Compression leak down test and evaluate.

*         Probably replace the clutch

 

*         Body:  Budget:  $2500-3000

  Remove roof rack and as much trim as possible.  Remove F&R bumpers.

Repair/recover and repaint all corroded areas.  Complete repaint and
re-clear coat.  The glass looked pretty good as far as I could see.  Still
it would be nice to replace the windshield at this point, also.

European headlights.

 

*         Underneath:  Ah, yes. The great abyss. The totally unknown.  The
really, really ugly.

o        Brakes:  All four rotors and pads.  Brake lines probably.
$1200-1500.

o        I gotta believe that all control arms, bushings, and probably at
least one or two CV joints will need to be replaced.  Let's say that
EVERYthing needs to be done here:  $2000.  

o        Exhaust system:  I don't want to think about this, but if
necessary, I guess a Stebro could be sourced at a cost of $1800 or so
installed.  Otherwise I might be tempted to do something else, but in Maine,
having custom fabrication done is difficult outside of greater Portland.  

o        Tires:  About $500 the set, and not much selection from Tire Rack
at the moment.  I am assuming that this car has 15" wheels and I didn't
check, but I think they looked like "normal" BBS wheels for this car.

o        I am sure that the rear differential and rear transmission seal
will need to be replaced, and probably, or rather, UNDOUBTEDLY the
driveshaft center bearing will be toast.  Allow:  $500.  these seals must
NOT be weaping to any significant degree because Maine's inspection laws are
very clear about this, and there are fewer and fewer places that will
inspect a vehicle without putting it up on a lift.  I don't go to those
places and in fact don't actually know where any are in this part of the
state.

o        Shocks and shock mounts and bushings.  Probably:  $1,000 allowance.

 

Unknowns but presumed to be evil lurking out there:  air conditioning
compressor, receiver, dryer.  This will be expensive and I would be very,
very surprised if they are not inop.  Heater core and radiator?  Well, the
radiator looked OK from what I could see, so nothing obvious.  The heater
core?  If one of the issues was poor heat you can be guaranteed that it was
a contributor to the car being parked.  

 

The rest of the electrics?  I dunno. Your guess is as good as mine.
Switches, interior gizzies like heated seats and so forth?  I would assume
that these are all inop although the interior looked more like a 75,000 mile
car from what I could see. the two front seats and the rear seat back.  The
rear seat bench was up exposing the battery, and it looked clean underneath
it.

 

Now, of course if you have the time the space, the tools and the knowledge
to do all of the repairs yourself, then you could easily have a decent
driver, like new, for a lot less than I have shown above.  But I am assuming
that John will do all of my work on this car, and I know from experience
what to expect.  MOST of the parts will be OEM, wherever possible.

The car would then be set for another 200,000 miles with normal maintenance.


 

Total Budget:  Oh, I'll guess $12-15,000 if everything was done at once. 

 

Continued

 

 

 

 



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